I finally pieced together some footage from my trip to Thailand last May. But the only thing this video reminded me of was how much I didn’t get on film—or in photos. And how badly I need to go back during peak season. I didn’t get any footage riding in the back of a tuk-tuk, watching the sunset over Bangkok from State Tower, playing with tigers, doing shots with bartenders, running around the beach with a French rugby player, riding up the Chao Phraya River at sunset, walking through ornate temples, or getting violently ill from curry. Nor did I get any footage of the homeless guy who persuaded me to buy rice whiskey at the carryout, the friendly cab driver who couldn’t understand why a young blonde like me was traveling alone, the kids who tried to sell me a bicycle, or the man who’d gone to medical school in New York before returning back to Phuket. But I’ll take this as a learning experience, both for filming and editing.
It’s by no means perfect, and the quality is kind of really shitty. But I just had to pull something together against this song—Sleepwalking Through the Mekong by Morgan Page—since it was basically the soundtrack to my entire trip. Enjoy!
Warning: famous landmarks may be smaller than they appear on the internet
Despite my general lack of motivation to do much of anything while in Cabo, we made the trip out to the infamous arch at Land’s End, or El Arco as the locals call it. The arch is probably the most recognizable landmark in Cabo San Lucas, and it sits perched upon the southernmost tip of the Baja California Sur Peninsula where the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortez meet. It’s definitely a tourist trap, but only if you let it be.
Heading out to Lover’s Beach on our “glass bottom boat”
Strong riptides and rocky coastlines make most of Cabo’s gorgeous beaches unswimmable. Medano Beach is the most popular with tons of resorts and nightlife nearby, but it’s also swarming with tourists and crowded with water sports. We spent about 10 seconds there before hopping onto a $10/person “glass bottom boat” for a ride out to the arch. I use the term glass bottom loosely because a 3ft x 1.5ft window does not make a glass bottom in my book.
Silly me to think that a glass bottom boat would have an entirely glass bottom.
Who needs a glass bottom when you can hang over the edge and dip your camera into the water?
We made our way through the gulf and the tourist boats seemed to multiply by the second from every wave that crashed around us. We saw the arch, and I wish I could make this sentence a little more exciting but honestly that’s how it left me feeling. It was cool, but much smaller than I’d thought. It probably would’ve been a lot cooler if the boat would’ve dropped us off on land rather than giving us a quick peak from 100 yards away. I’m just glad we only paid $10 to check it out.
I don’t know why I always thought the arch was much larger. Story of my life.Typical tourist shot waaayyy in front of the archI wonder if I was supposed to tip him for taking these pics?Oh yeah, we passed this lone sea lion too, who’d found the perfect napping spot.
We were dropped off at a small beach nestled between two gigantic rocks not far from the mainland. The place was overrun with sunbathers, snorkelers, and boats, so we ventured on over a small cluster of rocks for a bit more privacy.
No, just no. But you totally should’ve seen the front.
Belinda and Sherri set up shop on a secluded stretch of sand just on the other side of tourist hell, relaxing in the shade of towering rocks that resembled the canyons of Wall Street—only prettier. I tackled the deceivingly inviting blue water, and after several losing battles (just to be fair, the waves played nasty with wardrobe malfunctions, face plants, and mouthfuls of saltwater and sand), I needed a break from the bitch that is the Sea of Cortez. Even Belinda, born and raised on the beaches of Australia, got knocked off her feet more than once. I decided it was time for me to moved on over mountains of rocks towards Lover’s Beach.
A nice climb, not too daunting.
Right after I snapped this pic a huge wave came and completely wiped me out.
The cave on the way to Lover’s Beach. Saw a few empty beer cans and graffiti in there. Damn kids.
The smartest thing I did all day was break away from the tourists in search of Lover’s and Divorce Beach. I let go of all my vain concerns about jiggly body bits and set out in nothing but my bikini, sunglasses, and my camera strapped to my wrist. I figured the less shit I had on me while navigating between slippery rocks and angry waves, the less likely I was to break a limb.
Is beach missing a C? Or is this just some horrible kerning?This kid was fun as hell to watch. I thought about asking for lessons but again, jiggly bits.
I’d guess that it took about 25 minutes of strategic rock hopping to reach the small but serene Lover’s Beach. And best of all there were only two kids surfing and a few canoodling European couples (how fitting). The water was even more lover-ly; it didn’t seem like it wanted to pillage you and hold you hostage at all. I made my way up from the water and onto the tan sand of paradise only to realize it was actually quite rocky on my bare feet. But I had made it this far, I had to tough it out and make it to Divorce Beach.
Lover’s Beach from the boat. The passage between the two rocks leads to Divorce Beach.
After about ten steps it became clear that what looked like a quick, easy jaunt was more like walking on hot coals and shards of glass. I don’t know if the rocky sand was cutting or burning my feet more, but it hurt. Seeing that I had the distance of about two city blocks ahead of me, I picked up the pace. And my thought process went a little something like this:
“Shit, should I turn back around? Should I sit down on my butt real quick and rock from cheek to cheek, just until my feet cool off?” I sped up even more, and now my jiggly bits were in fact, jiggling. “What if I trip and fall and burn my face off in this scorching fire glass? Is there any shade ANYWHERE?”
It took a lot of uncontrollable cursing and unwarranted bikini jogging (yes, just like a scene from Baywatch, but minus the hot bikini babe and plus Slimer from the Ghostbusters), but I made it to the Pacific Ocean just in time to save my feet from amputation. Once semi-cooled down, I realized I was the only person on this side of the beach. Suddenly all was right in the world again. So quiet, peaceful, and relaxing. Watching the power of the waves could only be described as one of those “mother nature’s a badass” moments.
The beautiful, powerful waves at Divorce Beach.I need to try surfing, like soon.Appy Boob day! 27!No tourists for as far as the eye can seeEnd verdict: Divorce Beach > Lover’s Beach
I stayed at Divorce Beach for a good hour or so until a few more people found out about my secret. Most of me was enjoying the scenery, but my blistered feet were dreading the sprint back across the fiery pits of hell. Luckily I must’ve burnt off the layer of skin that has any feeling the first time around, so the way back was a cakewalk. Yay for third degree burns!
The other day I was lucky enough to get a decent amount of money for referring a friend who was hired at our company. I should’ve put it directly towards my credit card bills, but I just did that with my entire tax return. So screw it, I’m going somewhere. Somewhere far, unlike any place I’ve ever been before so that I can experience true culture shock. I want to feel uncomfortable, lost, and far away from anything I’ve ever known.
So I’m going to Thailand.
Yes, I’ll probably stay close to the tourist hotspots like Bangkok and Phuket, but it will still be completely foreign to me since I know nothing about Thailand other than they had a huge Tsunami in 04, and it’s a place where both horny expats and honeymooning lovers go. I’ve only tried Thai food once, and to be embarrassingly honest I really don’t know much about Asia at all.
I’ll be traveling from May 18th – May 29th, spending over 55 hours in airports and airplanes. And sure it’s rainy season, but that just translates to affordable for me. It’s all about the silver lining people. My glass is always half full!
It’s rather unlike me to book such a huge trip just a month in advance, but this is an experiment at becoming a more adventurous on-the-go traveler. And I don’t plan on doing much research or planning because I don’t want to know what to expect. But I did jot down a few thoughts running through my mind in my notebook last night*.
It’s going to be an exciting journey. Stay tuned!
*See scanned image above. Apologies for my dreadful handwriting
I hate to admit it, but I was completely oblivious to the full moon parties of Thailand before booking my trip to the BVI. But thanks to the internet, a quick Google search showed me photos: minimal clothing, flaming jump ropes, glowing body paint, endless shots, and sand-covered bodies passed out in the sand. Though it did look like an STD-ridden, overcrowded, sweaty mess, I was tempted. Sign me up.
So you can imagine my excitement after learning about the Full Moon Parties at Bomba’s Shack in the BVI. But another Google image search showed me hardly the same scene: tame partying, sober faces, and a bit more conservative crowd of Hard Rock Cafe t-shirt donning tourists posing for photos. But Bomba’s Shack was just up the hill from our resort, so we spent our final evening in Tortola partying with the locals.
Get naked, get a free tshirtBomba’s truck
Bomba’s shack is exactly that—a shack built from what appears to be tons of scraps and debris that has washed ashore. Tattered, dirty underwear adorned the walls that look as though the slightest breeze will send it crumbling right into the ocean that lies just steps away. There’s Sharpie-scribbled writing on nearly every conceivable surface, and of course, everybody is on island time. Oddly enough, it did look like the kind of bar that’d be jam-packed any given night in the LES of New York.
Bomba’s ShackThe panties
Intrigued by stories of others’ Full Moon Party celebrations, and intoxicated by the hopeful anticipation of a wildly fun evening I’d be struggling to remember in the morning, I got suckered into buying the $50 wristband for a night of unlimited alcohol and mushroom tea. It seemed like a good excuse to ignore my rational self from trying to keep my shit together as much as possible for my early AM flight. I figured I’d leave it up to the fate of my “how much I can drink : how many hours until the 6am ferry” ratio.
I immediately bee-lined past the flashing lights, live music, and drunk dancing, straight into the dark, secluded corner of the lot to get some tea. There was a makeshift bar set up thats only light was from the full moon and the flame beneath the boiling pot of mushroom tea. The guy serving up the tea was the exact image of a guy you’d normally steer clear of if you saw him walking down the street in New York in broad daylight. Even if it means walking a block out of your way. He was speaking gibberish and he wouldn’t give me any tea unless I walked over to him behind the bar.
The teamaster, succeeding at freaking me out
Having never done drugs in my life, I was a bit nervous about the effects of this mushroom tea so I was double fisting a scalding hot mug and a backup vodka pineapple. Suddenly my mind was racing. Was it strong? Would I trip instantly, or is it the kind of thing that would take a while to set in? Would I realize I was tripping? Would I trip at all? Having not done my research, I didn’t know if it was strong stuff, nor did I really want to find out when I’m 1,700 miles from home with no cell service, and an early flight to catch. So after I started to feel the vodka kick in I called it quits after one cup of tea.
Before long we were dancing in the crowds of people to live music, and I felt a dog suddenly nibbling on my toes as they kicked out of the sand. We were there just a week after carnival so apparently most of the tourists had left by then, but every other person we had met during our 5 days of island hopping was at this party. We met tons of people, including some guys from New York that I was so nice as to get free drinks with my unlimited wristband, and this guy who’s souvenir was to have everyone sign his shirt. So I drew a smiley face along with my name around his nipple.
My dancing partner, who thought my toes looked like dog treatsSouvenir nipple signing!
Then hours of dancing followed by an increase in being hit on, until most of the couples were calling it a night and the locals were out to pick up any leftover single, drunk tourists they could run off with. The Full Moon Party was coming to an end. And I wasn’t nearly as drunk as I’d thought I’d be for $50.
Guys who claimed to be from New YorkStephanie & I with Eric our cab driver
We headed back to the room to finish packing up the remnants of a wonderful vacation for a 6a ferry back to the airport in St Thomas. Luckily we made it on time with only mild hangovers, but the BVI’s couldn’t send us off without one last adventure: the ferry caught on fire in the middle of the ocean. We didn’t see any flames, just choked on the thick smoke that was pouring in from under the floorboards. Luckily it wasn’t too bad, and after vocalizing several Titanic-like concerns, we were able to swap ships and make it to St Thomas just in time for our ironically delayed flights.
I love boats. I’ll take any excuse to head out on the water on just about anything that at least partially floats (unless it involves Rose Dawson and a life-or-death situation). I love gliding across the water towards a seemingly endless horizon to the hum of the boat’s engine, feeling the crisp wind steal the breath right from my lungs. Especially when the 360° view is nothing but deep blue waters laid like a welcoming path through the perfectly spaced mountains. So it only made sense to spend some time island-hopping down in the Virgin Islands.
As luck would have it, on one of the nicest mornings of our trip our speedboat journey was canceled due to mechanical problems with the boat. So rather than sit around on the beach, we headed over to Road Town and jumped on the ferry to Virgin Gorda.
The tree-covered mountains looked soft and lickable
After gliding through the sea and mountains, we docked at Virgin Gorda and frankly, I was struggling to see what the big deal was. Sure it was nice, but it looked no different than the numerous islands we’d just sped past. So we hopped in the back of a poorly-marked pickup truck and made our way to the Baths, hoping for something to change.
We jumped out at a seemingly desolate area with signs leading us towards a gravel path that weaved through a patch of trees. We started on our way, encountering a few peculiar chameleon-esque lizards along the way (which also looked lickable for reasons other than the mountains).
Clearly these lizards aren’t that good at camouflaging
Then we reached the top of the baths and it all made sense. We were staring out at slivers of beautiful, postcard-worthy beaches peaking out from gigantic boulders. I mean huge boulders. The luxurious, P-Diddy style yachts anchored just offshore looked laughable in size compared to these boulders that were strewn about the beach.
Does anyone else see the angry face in this one?
Ohhh, so THIS is what Paradise looks like!Posing for my “Little Mermaid” moment
There were plenty of nooks and bays to set up shop and do some sun-bathing, or go wading in the crystal clear water. Or you could take the more adventurous route and squeeze your way through the boulders along the Devil’s Bay Trail.
The sign leading you through an obscure 1ft passageway to enter the cave
We opted for adventure. Bikini-clad and barefoot, we carried our snorkeling gear and squeezed our way through the narrow passage to begin our journey.
Hunched over butt shot
The hike winds on for about 20 minutes through caves and pools of water trapped by enormous boulders. Beams of sunlight squeezed through every tiny crack, leaving some spots dark. Turning, crawling, climbing, squeezing through narrow passageways better suited for children. Or cats. Ropes and wooden ladders provided assistance at times, as crabs scuttled by without hassle.
Climbing through the cavesStephanie up ahead as I took 8 million photosProbably my favorite spot inside the cavesStopping to relax and snap a pic inside the caves. Yes we needed a flash
Once we made our way through to Devil’s Bay we did some snorkeling. Stephanie had had enough so I ventured on by myself. I’ve done my fair share of just-off-the-beach snorkeling, so I decided to get a bit adventurous and navigate my way through the caves. Floating serenely and completely lost in the moment, I saw a curious blue fish taking an interest in me. I started to follow it, unbeknownst to everything else around me. It kept looking back as if to say “hurry up!” (though I’m sure it was more like “what is that and why is it following me?”).
I can’t help but notice the sand patch lining up with the fish’s tail looks like a fart cloud
Before long, I was following an entire school of fish as they swayed with the current and made their way through a two-foot-wide opening into a canyon. I gave it a second thought, but before I could turn around the current had swept me in. The coral was so high all I could do was try to stay afloat while sucking in my gut, and try to master Jedi mind-tricks to push myself away from the rocks. I had a brief moment of panic, wondering if I’d be able to get out considering there was hardly enough depth to properly swim. And more importantly, do sharks hide in caves?
New friendsCoral lining the underwater entry to the canyon
Just when the water deepened and I was able to exhale, I turned to see a pinkish blob floating in front of me. I was in a state of confusion, intrigue, and general euphoria with the peace of the ocean, so I—and by I, I mean the current— decided to swim towards it. The pink blob was also interested in the flesh blob in front of it, so it lunged towards me in quick, assertive motions. Before I realized it I was face to face with a jellyfish, which appeared ready to latch on. Only knowing that these things can sting and I wasn’t ready to ask Stephanie to pee on my face, I turned around and swam as fast as my finned feet could take me, over the coral, through the canyon, around the boulders, and all the way back onto shore.
Yes I managed to snap a picture once I got a safe distance awayWhile I was battling my new arch nemesis, Stephanie was meditating in peace on this rock
After the threat of heart failure and subsequent/necessary relaxing on the secluded beach, we made our way back through the boulders and stopped for a quick bite to eat. I took part in observing an intense polarized conversation between Stephanie and a local: Stephanie, arguing for modern communication in a world that would fail without constant iPhone connectivity, against the BVI-born guy who’d spent some time in the overwhelming streets of NYC before moving back to his simpler, more enriching island life. Shit got real. Let’s just say I’m glad neither of them were packing heat.
I felt the need to ask the latter member of the argument for a pic to thank him for his troubles
The next day our boat charter was ready to go. Stephanie—the poor girl had to go all the way to the Caribbean to realize she wasn’t a fan of island time, beaches, boats, or water—wasn’t feeling up for the ride so I went solo.
The boats at Soper’s Hole, Road TownThe incredibly nice family from Barcelona I’d met, and wish I had a way to get in touch with
I was on a boat with about 9 other people from Arkansas and Barcelona aboard the Mystique, which I can’t speak highly enough about. The crew were all around great people. Helpful, fun, and they kept us happy with unlimited rum punch and snacks. We anchored out at a tiny secluded island no bigger than a soccer field for snorkeling on the way to Jost Van Dyke. Having grown some balls since the previous day’s underwater experience, I set out to explore the underwater world again. Thankfully this time was much less eventful. There was plenty of colorful marine life, but this time it was terrified of me, not trying to attack my face.
The Mystique, and some other random boatThat’s Captain Kim to you!Isolated ParadiseSnorkeling breakOne last pic before swimming back to the boat
We made our way to Jost Van Dyke for lunch at Jewel’s Snack Shack. Having a chat with Jewel, the hut’s vibrantly outspoken owner, and reading the words of wisdom that adorn the walls are both reason enough to stop for a drink. Plus it’s home of the fabulous “Party Punch,” which she calls “rum punch with a touch of class.” Maybe it was the convincing marketing, or the extra sprinkle of nutmeg on top, but this really was the best rum punch I’d had on the islands.
The words to live by left by fellow travelers decorate the walls at Jewel’sMmm…Rum Punch
After scarfing down a hot dog quicker than it took to heat it up, the bulk of us made our way over to the Soggy Dollar Bar. I grabbed a Virgin Islands Islands Summer Ale and kicked back in my first hammock ever, which, though it was extremely comfortable and just as relaxing as you’d imagine, the task of getting out gracefully proved to be quite daunting.
The Soggy Dollar Bar gets its name because they let you pay —you guessed it—soggy dollarsAwkward tourist photo in front of the Soggy Dollar Bar
Before I knew it, the day was coming to an end. I started making my way back to the boat before realizing that the only thing standing (technically swimming) in the way of me climbing onboard was a giant barracuda. Great. Jellyfish flashbacks ensued.
Ooo…Barracuda!
Luckily I made it back injury-free, and planted myself in one of the seats at the front of the boat. I was accompanied only by my decent buzz as everyone else hid in the shade. I spent the next hour speeding away from the sun with the wind in my face. And I struggled to remember a more perfect moment in my 26 years of life.
I am by no means a food connoisseur. Hell, one of my favorite foods is the Cheesy Gordita Crunch from Taco Bell. But I do have nearly 27 years of experience in eating. That’s gotta give me some credibility, right?
Living in New York for nearly six years has given me a slight tendency to judge and compare food and dining experiences based on the best meals I’ve had in the city. But from my accumulation of previous feeding time adventures in the Caribbean, I wasn’t exactly sure what to expect when asking around for a nice restaurant to go to for birthday dinner. I’ve seen everything from folding chairs and paper plates, to fish covered with melted cheese. Several tourists and locals recommended the Bananakeet Cafe on top of Windy Hill, so we figured what the hell, why not? The name didn’t sound like much more than a simple grab-and-go spot for fruit and coffee, but we were told the view alone was worth it. With the tagline “The Higher You Get… The Better The View,” you can’t help but wonder what’s so great about this view. I can assure you, it did not disappoint my eyes or my tongue for my first dinner as a 26 year old.
Bananakeet Cafe, “The Higher You Get, The Better The View”
Described as “Caribbean fusion with a view,” the open-patio restaurant is situated alongside The Heritage Inn, with a tempting little pool between the two. The covered area near the bar opens up to a full seating area on the deck looking over the entire bay. And the infamous sunset. It could only be described as every cliche you would ever use to describe a perfect sunset, painting the sky with colors and dramatic clouds. The photos just couldn’t do it justice, but I kept snapping anyway. If you go to Banakeet Cafe, definitely plan on being there a bit before the sun goes down!
Sunset from Bananakeet CafeThe view changes every minute, it’s hard not to snap a million pics in one sitting
Plus another great part about being there during sunset, you get a free sunset shot. But let’s just pretend they were free birthday shots because everyone in the world was obviously pumped about my birthday.
The evolution of Corona adsHappy birthday dinner to me!
I was surprised to see a menu full of things that I couldn’t wait to put in my mouth. So I went with pumpkin soup, coconut fried shrimp, and sushi. Delicious, quality food, and an equally stellar presentation. Stephanie had the vegetarian pasta which she also said was incredible.
Pumpkin soupCoconut fried shrimpSushi with what tasted like a peanut-based sesame soy sauceVegetarian Pasta
The food was delicious and fresh, and the service was great. Our waiter was friendly and kept offering to take pictures of us, and totally understood when I jumped up in the middle of ordering and told him to hold on while I snapped “the perfect sunset photo.” He even gave me a free birthday dessert! It certainly wasn’t a budget meal, but entirely worth every dollar.
And besides, it was my birthday so it was Stephanie’s treat! Thanks Stephanie!
During our five night trip to the British Virgin Islands, Stephanie and I stayed at the Long Bay Beach Resort & Villas on Tortola. The grounds were gorgeous—52 acres of sprawling, semi-secluded rooms nestled throughout the lush hills. We managed to snag a beachfront deluxe room for just $550 for five nights through TripAlertz. The room was clean and comfortable, the bathroom and walk-in closet were easily the size of most budget New York City apartments, and the full-sized window in the shower made me feel like a bit of an exhibitionist. But how can anyone resist opening the window to the sound of the waves and the moon glowing over the ocean just steps away?
View from the pool areaView from our balconyOur beachfront deluxe room—bet you can’t guess which bed is mine!
The private beach right outside of our room was gorgeous to look at, but not the best for swimming. It wasn’t horrible by any means, but it was always wavy and some spots were a bit rocky just a few feet into the water. Our friends stayed at the resort the week before us and the one girl actually broke her toe swimming in the ocean on the first day of her vacation. Also there were signs all over the place warning of strong riptides, so swimmers beware!
Pulling a lounge chair into the water for some relaxationThe private beach areaSome pretty serious waves
We never made it down in time for the breakfast buffet, but we did order a proper breakfast at the resort’s restaurant 1748 a couple of times. It was good, not great, and a bit overpriced for the portion size. I only splurged for a juice with my meal on the first day because the serving size was hardly worth the price.
Beachside breakfast at 1748—cinnamon raisin french toast, watermelon and OJ
I usually can’t understand why anyone would go to a beachfront resort and then spend time at the pool. But as my aging skin quickly realized, sometimes you need a break from all of the harsh saltwater. Luckily the Long Bay Beach Resort has a fantastic pool with a swim-up bar and grill, friendly bartenders, and a water slide. What more could you possibly need? Oh did I mention the view is great too? Tropical green hills on one side, and a deck overlooking the ocean on the other.
Piña colada time in the poolOh bartender, if you only knew what you were getting yourself into by handing me that bottleActing like a drunk little kid on the water slide while simultaneously scaring themRum punch with the secret ingredient: nutmeg!
Taking a stroll West down the beach to Belmont Bay made me second guess all of those times I ever made fun of any hopeless romantic who ever said “I enjoy long walks on the beach.” This stretch of beach is almost uninhibited, with pristine, soft sand and the occasional coconut here and there, and nothing but the sound of the ocean.
The untouched soft sand at Belmont BayBelmont Bay
We asked a few people where was the best beach was within walking distance from the resort. Everyone pointed us in the same direction just beyond Belmont Bay. So we started our trek down this road a few yards from the beach, through the trees and private drives, around Belmont Pond, and right onto Smuggler’s Cover.
Surfboard fork in the roadNature Boy Hidden Beach Bar, sans Nature Boy
We continued on for another 30-45 minutes on a gravel path through the trees until we stopped hearing the sounds of the ocean. It was hot, and we were starting to wonder if maybe we’d taken a wrong turn.
The path to Smuggler’s CoverSmuggler’s Cove
Just as quickly as we’d started discussing the idea of turning around, what appeared to be a mirage of paradise emerged from beyond the thick green forest. The non-strenuous but sweaty haul was definitely worth it. This beach was a secluded, private oasis of crystal clear, calm water and no rocks and nonexistent waves almost as calm as a swimming pool.
I paid $8 to rent some snorkeling gear to swim around for an hour or so. Normally it’s $10 for 30 mins, but I don’t think they’re too strict about any prices at that beach. I started off on a stretch of reefs close to the shore where there were massive schools of tiny fish. Then I swam further out as the fish got even bigger, until a grey fish that was about 3 feet long caught my eye . My first reaction was “shark!” as I bee-lined back to shore thinking about the terrifying JAWS ride at Disney World.
A wall of fish which was slightly unnerving to swim throughSafe back at the shore
Before heading back to the resort another local told us to walk into the trees and check out the Lincoln that Queen Elizabeth II had riden in on her visit to the island in 1976. I was intrigued, and expecting to see some sort of memorialized car in pristine condition. We walked for a few minutes without seeing anything, and realized that yet again we were taking some strange man’s advice and wandering off into the forest alone. But alas, we realized this rusted pile of junk was indeed the Lincoln.
The Lincoln that Queen Elizabeth II rode in in 1976
All in all the Long Bay Beach Resort was a nice place to stay. It’s also just a short walk or even shorter cab ride to Bomba’s Shack (hosting the Virgin Islands’ Full Moon Party each month), and Sebastian’s on the Beach. It’s about a 15-20 minute cab ride to Road Town where most of the ferries arrive/depart for other islands, but if you’re only planning a day or two of excursions, Long Bay Beach is a great place to relax, unwind, and enjoy a sunset or three.
On August 9th I set out to celebrate my 26th birthday on the furthest secluded beach I could get to on a budget. Though the free flight and amazingly low hotel price may have been a steal, I learned two very important things during my six day getaway: the British Virgin Islands are not a place to visit if you’re on a tight budget, and you shouldn’t visit during low-season if you’re young, single, and looking for any kind of nightlife fun.
In case you missed the previous post, let me preface this story with the fact that this was originally a birthday trip I had planned for myself and my (now ex) boyfriend. But shit happens, so my friend Stephanie stepped in and said she’d go. I met her at the airport in St Thomas and we took a $20 cab ride to the $55RT ferry to Tortola. I was excited to finally cruise around the islands in the warm Caribbean air, but that was hardly the case. The boat was fully enclosed and looked like it was about to sink at any minute (it actually did catch fire on the way back to St Thomas, but more on that later). We made it over to West End Tortola safely in about 45 minutes, and finally one last $10 cab ride got us to the resort in Long Bay.
Loading people into the ferry
Fast forward to check-in. When we arrived at the hotel I was greeted as Mrs. Edwards (my ex’s last name) for the next two days, no matter how many times I told them otherwise. Even though the reservation was in my name, they just couldn’t get it through their heads that he wasn’t there. It’s a good thing I wasn’t upset over this breakup, or it could’ve been painstakingly similar to the Sex and the City movie.
After checking in we hopped into a van and our driver dodged chickens and roosters to drive up a steep hill, around to a secluded entrance and down a few stairs to our room. It was a room with only one bed, even though I had specifically called and changed the request myself. Fortunately it was off-season and the place wasn’t really that busy, so we hopped back in the car and drove back down the hill to a beachfront two bed room with a balcony looking out over the ocean. Jackpot upgrade.
The view from our balconyThe steps down to the beach, as seen from our balcony
We both arrived absolutely starving, but my wallet was already feeling a little bit strained so we decided that the best thing to do was to get into our bikinis and run out to the beach to watch the sunset.
Me enjoying the sunset from the ocean in Long Bay
Once we’d basked in the glory of paradise until our fingers were pruney, we ventured down to the resort’s beachfront restaurant, 1748, to fill our bellies. The place couldn’t have been more romantic: candlelit, open-air seating along the ocean, with the sound of waves crashing, and four other love-drunk couples gazing into each others’ eyes as they shared desserts. We were going to need wine for this.
Thank God for alcohol……and food!
We both opted for a light dinner (Stephanie because she has this mysterious thing called self-control, and me because I was more concerned with getting a buzz off the wine). We took our time enjoying our minestrone and bruschetta, as the couples began to head back to their hotel rooms one by one. Before long it was 930 and we were getting glares from the waitresses. We took that as our cue to end our first day of our accidental honeymoon and head back to the room ourselves.
Long Bay Beach, Tortola, British Virgin Islands, courtesy of Caribbean-scuba.net
I always told myself that as soon as I got my first real job, I’d be booking a flight to Paris to celebrate. As it turns out, that first-year salary doesn’t exactly support an overseas adventure of sight-seeing and gluttony, so Paris was slightly out of reach for the immediate future without a little bit of savings. But I wasn’t going to let that get in the way of going somewhere new and exciting for my first big-girl vacation.
I booked a round trip flight + 5 night stay at a beachfront property in the British Virgin Islands for only $330 total, my half. Here’s how I did it.
I’ve had my eye on the Virgin Islands for a little over a year now, so after plenty of research and patience, I decided to make the commitment and book a trip. I figured out that my birthday would be the perfect time to go, because 1 it’s in August, off season, so the hotels aren’t as expensive, and 2 because I knew I could guilt-trip my boyfriend into supplementing the cost by making the trip with me since it’s “for my birthday.”
I cashed in on some of my free miles through Spirit Airlines (55,000 points to be exact) and paid only $30 in taxes and fees for a round trip flight from New York to St Thomas, USVI. That flight should have been just over $400. Cha-ching! I opened a Spirit Mastercard and became a member of the $9 fare club more than 5 years ago, but I wouldn’t recommend it to anyone now. I used to get 1-2 free flights per year with my miles just from using my credit card and making a few trips from New York to Detroit to visit family. There were no restrictions, no black out dates, no tiered seating for the amount of points. You could basically fly wherever they flew, whenever you wanted without ever being told no. Now there’s an annual fee, checked and carry-on bag fees, booking fees, and it’s nearly impossible to get a seat on a flight. I can’t speak for the new card that they’re in the process of switching over to, but if it’s anything like the current one, you’re better off paying for a flight on another airline with better customer service and more spacious seating.
Long Bay Beach Resort, where we’re staying in the British Virgin Islands
A few months ago I signed up for TripAlertz, which is basically a members only, Groupon-style travel site where the more people who book, the cheaper the price. I got an email about a deal for the Long Bay Beach Resort in Tortola, British Virgin Islands, which was a place I had looked at but ruled out as too expensive at $234 a night + tax. But after a month of searching, I wasn’t having much luck finding an affordable, beachfront hotel my boyfriend and I could agree upon in the US Virgin Islands. I wanted to get away from the touristy overcrowding of St Thomas, and even strongly considered an eco-tent on a secluded beach in St John. My guy wasn’t convinced though, and he wanted something similar to the Ritz Carlton, but on a Holiday Inn budget. So I broadened my search to the British Virgin Islands and looked into the TripAlertz deal—$550 for five nights! On any other website, this hotel was $1170 for five nights BEFORE taxes.
Prior to this deal, we had decided on the Frenchman’s Reef and Morningstar Resort in St Thomas, but we were looking at $792 for just four nights, plus tax. And then we found out that half of the resort, including the restaurants and bars, would be closed for renovations. The choice was clear—pay $250 less and stay one extra night in a fully operating resort. We initially were planning on a four night getaway since that’s all the time he can take off work, but I was secretly hoping to find a place that was cheap enough for me to head down there a day early and spend some time alone, which is exactly what happened. I’m flying down on August 9th, coming back to New York on the 14th.
Sunset at the Long Bay Beach Resort, courtesy of National Geographic
We had to pay the price of the hotel up front, totalling $640 after taxes. A week after the sale ended we got an email saying that since so many people booked the trip, we’ve hit the “epic” pricing and received an extra $25 off the trip! Not a huge amount, but definitely great that they stuck to their word!
We’ll have to pay for the ferry to get from the airport in St John to Tortola and back, which is $55 round trip. Other than that all of our money is going towards food, drinks, and fun! I think it’ll be a great experience and an excellent opportunity to do some island hopping. I’ve started checking out the other islands to find some excursions and beaches for day trips. So far, I’m considering Cinnamon Bay, Trunk Bay, Jost Van Dyke, and Virgin Gorda.
The Baths at Virgin Gorda, courtesy of VirginGordaBaths.com
If you’ve been to the Virgin Islands, what’s your favorite beach or place for snorkeling? Is there somewhere to rent a boat for a day, or should I consider a charter? Maybe a Jeep for some off-roading? Any recommendations for an unforgettable birthday getaway are greatly appreciated!
Fresh off the heels of my last post, Beating the Winter Blues on a Budget, I wanted to follow up with a review on an all-inclusive hotel I stayed at in Jamaica last fall. I went during low season from September 26-30 (right in the middle of Tropical Storm Nicole), so it was just under $150 a night (after taxes) for double occupancy. But since all food and drinks are paid for up front, you might be able to get a good deal during the high season.
The resort is a $30, 20-minute taxi-ride from the airport, on its own little stretch of land that juts out into the bay. For those of you who are concerned about safety, the entire resort lies within a gated beachfront property that even my cab driver had a hard time getting into. There are 430 guest rooms spread out among two towers and a low-rise “Beach Wing” in a much more private setting. The main lobby is situated between the two towers, where you’ll find the front desk, a concierge, photo pick up, a bar, an Asian restaurant, and 2 pricey gift/convenience shops. Seriously, $22 for a disposable underwater camera. Remember to pack your own!
Upon entering the open-air lobby for check-in I was greeted with an ice cold tropical drink, garnished with a wedge of juicy pineapple on the rim. Check-in was fast, and I was able to upgrade to an oceanfront room on the seventh floor of tower B free of charge (probably because it was off-season, and I told them about this website). The room was exactly what you’d expect from your basic Caribbean hotel: tile floors, a frigid AC, and a basic old-school television. The beds were average with those gawdy floral quilted blankets that every standard hotel has. My room had a sliding glass door that led to a balcony overlooking a gorgeous view of the pools, mountains, and the seemingly endless Caribbean Sea. The bathrooms were clean and stocked with a liquid shower gel and shampoo dispenser reminiscent of a YMCA locker room. The rooms could use a bit of an upgrade, but I’ve read that they are finishing some renovations right now. Tower A was under construction while I was there and it in no way affected my stay.
Right past the main lobby, en route to the stage area for live entertainment, is the main pool area. There are two pools joined by a swim up bar in the middle, and a jacuzzi right behind those overlooking the ocean. The hotel didn’t seem to enforce a closing time for the pool or ocean since I found myself swimming at 3am the first night I arrived. That or I just didn’t get caught.
The main entertainment area is lined with 2-person cushioned wicker seats for a more intimate setting overlooking the ocean. But this is not the place to stay if you’re looking for a quiet, romantic retreat. It’s very family-friendly with plenty of activities including a water park, daycare, fitness center, miniature golf, tennis, shuffleboard, and giant games of chess and checkers (though some of the pieces appeared to be missing). For the most part the kid’s areas are comfortably situated away from the adult areas. But as I found out, it can be tremendously fun to join the kids and climb the concrete spiral staircases over and over again in order to glide down the 2 water slides. Once the kids have worn you out, try to snag a raft and float around the lazy river that winds throughout the castles and underneath waterfalls. I’m not sure how abundant these rafts would be in the high season since there were only a handful available as I floated around in the rain that was finally starting to let up. There is also a fourth pool with a volleyball net nestled between the water park and entertainment area. The resort is certainly big enough for every kind of traveler to find their own nook. Due to the storm and constant flash flooding, I rarely went over into the low-rise side of the resort, which was spread out across a lush green lawn with a gazebo fit for a wedding that I didn’t even know existed until my last day.
The resort has three beaches, each separated by a small stretch of rocks, with a good amount of marine life scattered along the shore. The beach closest to the towers is mainly for swimming and sunbathing, and is just a few steps away from the main pool area. The main (center) beach is lined with chairs and grass hut-style umbrellas, and allows free use of non-motorized water sports such as snorkeling, sailing, kayaking and paddle boats. I definitely recommend the snorkeling since it’s free. I was surprised at just how many colorful fish were in those shallow waters where I had been swimming. Unfortunately I didn’t get to try out any of the other activities because I was by myself for the entire hour that the sun came out during my trip, and they require two people to use the boats. There’s also a small bar just a short walk down the main beach, bordering alongside the secluded clothing-optional beach. Overall the beaches were nice—soft sand and clear, bath-warm Caribbean water. There was a lot of plant life in some areas just off shore which made for great snorkeling but not the best swimming.
They also have photographers running around the resort to capture all of your fun moments (for purchase, of course). I thought that was pretty cool, because 1) who wants to carry a camera around the beach all day, and 2) if you’re like me, you’re always the one taking pictures, only to get home and realize you’re not in any of them. I actually got a few pictures to prove that I was in Jamaica this time around!
There are 5 bars and lounges throughout the property including a billiards-style nightclub, each with a pretty good selection of drinks on hand. The only kind of beer I saw was the local Red Stripe on tap, but they seemed to have all kinds of off-brand liquors. All-inclusive was completely new to me. It was hard to believe that I could walk up to the bar 25 times a day and order whatever drink I wanted and not even have to leave a tip! And really, when you’re in Jamaica during a tropical storm, what else are you going to do but enjoy free drinks all day long? I quickly learned that alcohol, jacuzzis and water slides can make the rainiest vacation fun!
There are three restaurants that require reservations, a snack grill, and a buffet providing a variety of food almost all day long. There’s definitely something for every meal for even the pickiest eater.
– Just off the main lobby is Silk Road, an Asian restaurant which I never visited since it was only open one night while I was at the resort.
– The Banana Walk: an open, ocean view buffet with extensive food options for just about every meal.
– Byron: a Caribbean Fusion restaurant where I had my very first taste of jerk chicken. Very tasty, Caribbean flavor.
– La Bella Vita: an Italian restaurant offering a five course menu, is tucked away just a short stroll outside of the common areas. I ordered a glass of red wine alongside fresh mozzarella and tomatoes, a caesar salad, a side of calamari and eggplant, a cheese manicotti and snapper dish with mixed vegetables, and finished off with a cannoli. The food was good, but the cheese manicotti and snapper didn’t blend so well for me. Separately they were delicious, perfectly cooked and flavorful, but together made for a bizarre combination that my palette wasn’t quite ready for.
– The Sunset Beach Grill: a small counter that offers up the basics: burgers, hot dogs, grilled cheese and fries until late in the evening. When I first ordered a cheese dog, I was a little surprised to get a hot pink dog on a toasted bun and American cheese melted on top. But something about those pink hot dogs were very tasty and very addicting, providing the right amount of a “soaking up the booze before and after dinner” snack.
The nightly entertainment included live music and dancing, talent shows, steel drums, contests, flaming limbo, and even a proposal. I’m not really a fan of Reggae and I had a great time listening and dancing to the local band, who were slightly poppy. The hotel staff was extremely friendly, especially a young man named Michael, and by the second day a good handful of them knew my name and called me out on my horrible dance moves from the night before. At times it felt a bit like summer camp, but I’ll have to give them the benefit of the doubt. We probably saw much more forced entertainment than the average vacationer due to the weather. During the onslaught of Tropical Storm Nicole, they did an incredible job of keeping our minds off the weather and focused on having a good time. My favorite contest was when they blindfolded five women on stage, only to take the blindfolds off four of them and trick the fifth into thinking she was in a cake eating competition as we all watched her scarf down a piece of cake.
They charge for WiFi, and it’s restricted to use in the main lobby (although I heard you can get signal in some of the lower floors of the towers). I paid $15 and received a login name and password good for 24 hours of internet usage. Some advice: don’t sign up for day 2 until you check to see that yours has been discontinued. Mine lasted the entire time I was there, while only paying for one day. Also, do not log in on your iPhone if you plan on switching back to a computer. There’s something about the iPhone that doesn’t let you log out, so you’ll have to go back to the internet service station and have them authorize another code, if they’re still open.
For an extra fee, the concierge can help set up several excursions, including a day trip to Rick’s Cafe for some cliff diving in Negril, or over to climb the waterfalls of Dunns River Falls in Ocho Rios. Unfortunately due to the flooding and rolling blackouts, I wasn’t able to take advantage of these day trips. The hotel also offers several free shuttles down to the Hip Strip (a 10 minute ride) for daytime shopping and nighttime partying. On the Hip Strip you’ll find tourist hot spots such as the Jamaican Bobsled Cafe, and Margaritaville with waterslides that pour out into the ocean where you can jump on floating trampolines.
On the day I was supposed to fly back to New York, Tropical Storm Nicole continued rolling across the bay and flooding the island. The hotel staff worked quickly to mop up the common areas, and let us know at check out that all flights were canceled that day, and offered us a distress rate of $100/night. Luckily I had made friends during my visit, so I ended up crashing with them that last night for free (probably against hotel policy… shhh!). I spent the morning chatting up the friendly concierge about local foods and traditions, and comparing USA and Jamaican pop culture. Since we were all pretty much holed up indoors all day, the crew did their best to organize events at all times in the common areas. The entire staff managed to stay full of energy, even as we all crammed into the lobby since the rest of the resort was flooded.
All in all I’d have to give the resort a 4/5 star satisfaction rating. If you’re used to luxury accommodations, this probably isn’t the resort for you. But chances are if you’re visiting this blog, you’re looking for a good deal for your money. It was most definitely worth every penny I spent in September, but I’m not sure I would pay much more than that to return a second time. I would love to visit again during the high season, while the sun is actually shining on the crystal blue sea. If there wasn’t a tropical storm battering the beaches and knocking out electricity every few minutes, the entire trip would have been a truly carefree, unpretentious experience where I could’ve left all of my stress behind along with my wallet, watch, and cell phone. The staff was so friendly and helpful to ensure that we had every single need met during the tropical storm, I could only imagine how amazing it would have been in the carefree, gorgeous Jamaican weather. Plus I feel like I need to explore the rest of Montego Bay that I missed out on!
If you’re looking to book a room at the Sunset Beach Resort & Spa it can be a bit pricey during the high season. Try and book a week or two outside of the high season, and if you can, get a room that sleeps 4 so you can split the cost even more ways, and you’ll definitely get more than your money’s worth. Make sure to check out the website for coupons before booking, and if you’re flexible, try going during the week as opposed to the weekend to save a few bucks. Good luck and safe travels, mon!
