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Brazil Guide Parties

The Ultimate Guide to Carnival in Rio – Part 2: How to Plan

So you’ve read all about what Carnival in Rio is like, and you’re ready to jump on a plane yesterday right? 

This post should help guide you through planning and booking Carnival in Rio—from when to start booking, where to stay, and other things to consider before booking your cachaça fueled trip.

WHEN IS CARNIVAL 2016?

Carnival 2016 runs from Friday, February 5 to Wednesday, February 10. There will be plenty of parties in the days before and after these dates, but this is when the official blocos and parades take place, and definitely the minimum amount of time that you’ll want to be in Rio.

HOW LONG SHOULD I SPEND IN RIO?

As long as you can.

I spent eight nights in Rio and found it to be very rushed. I spent the first four days (Monday – Thursday) running around town visiting the Christ Statue, Sugar Loaf, hang gliding (because of the weather this can eat up an entire day), Forte Duque de Caxias, and I only got to spend one day lounging on Copacabana beach before it was overrun with Carnival partiers. I spent the last four days and nights moving from bloco to bloco with zero time to relax on the beach or sightsee, and I missed the last day of Carnival when the Super Mario Bloco happened. I also didn’t have enough time to do a favela tour or visit Tijuca Forest either.

I’d say if you plan on doing a lot of sightseeing, give yourself at least ten days in Rio. But obviously the more the better. If you’re only planning to visit Rio for the Carnival dates, be prepared for slower traffic, large crowds, and not seeing much of the city outside of the blocos.

Rio at Sunset

WHEN SHOULD I BOOK MY FLIGHT?

Unless you plan on staying at a fancy beachfront hotel, flights will most likely be the most expensive part of your trip. Even before you’re ready to book your flight I recommend you start playing the points game with your frequent flyer miles or travel credit card well in advance. Otherwise you’ll most likely be seeing fares for over $1000 from the US. Flights to Rio are definitely not cheap.

Once you’ve decided on which dates to travel you’ll want to book your flights (and accommodation) as soon as possible. Try being a little flexible with your dates to see which days are the cheapest and you might save a few bucks.

If you need a visa, you’ll need this flight confirmation first as part of your visa application. 

DO I NEED A VISA OR ANY OTHER TRAVEL DOCUMENTS?

If you’re traveling from somewhere other than Brazil you’ll obviously need a passport. Make sure that it’s valid for at least six months after your return date, and that you have enough blank pages to accommodate the entry/exit stamps. Some countries also require a visa, so make sure to leave a full blank page for that if necessary. 

US citizens also need to obtain a tourist visa (which right now is $140, good for ten years). If you live near a Brazilian Embassy or Consulate it’s fairly simple to schedule an appointment and go in with all of the paperwork and get it yourself. But if you’re nowhere near one you might have to pay a decent chunk of change to have an agency take care of it for you. This can get pretty expensive, so take care of it as soon as you’ve booked your flight so that you don’t also have to pay fees to expedite. 

I used Travel Visa Pro to get my visa. Their site is horribly designed, but their customer service is outstanding. I had tons of questions during the application process, so I found their on-site chat feature to be a huge help to make sure I was doing everything properly. 

When applying for your visa you’ll need to show proof of a booked round trip flight in to and out of Brazil. This can be difficult if you’re traveling a bit more loosely or on a one-way ticket, but it can be done. For example, I was planning on doing most of my travel to, from, and within Brazil by boat and bus, booking it all once I arrived and as I traveled. The people at Travel Visa Pro advised me to book a random bullshit roundtrip flight, print the itinerary, cancel the flight, then send the printed itinerary in with my visa application. I didn’t want to at first, but I ended up doing it through Expedia since they have a free 24 hour cancellation period, and everything worked out fine. I definitely felt shady doing it, but feeling shady is better than losing money and being denied a visa because you don’t have a return flight.

US citizens can check this link for more info on visa requirements: http://travel.state.gov/content/passports/english/country/brazil.html

DO I NEED ANY VACCINATIONS?

If you’re sticking to Rio de Janeiro and the surrounding coastal areas, then most likely no. But if you plan on traveling further inland before or after Carnival you might want to double check the recommended vaccinations. It’s never a bad idea to make sure you’re up on your routine vaccinations (such as MMR, etc.). Some health insurance plans will cover certain vaccinations, but others you’ll have to pay out of pocket at your primary care physician or at a travel vaccination center. 

Here’s a link to help you decide what you may or may not need for Brazil: http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/destinations/traveler/none/brazil

WHEN SHOULD I BOOK MY ACCOMMODATION? 

If you have any sort of standards or expectations (like a private bathroom, private room, etc.) while traveling, get your hotel/hostel/apartment situated ASAP. Prices are roughly three to four times their normal rates during Carnival and they book up early. I booked in October (four months early) for this year’s Carnival and all of the hotels and hostels were already picked over. I lucked out finding one in Copacabana that was about $80/night (usually only about $20/night), but I shared a dorm room with five others. It was fine for me since I was rarely in the hostel and I had the chance to meet plenty of others to party with, but hostels aren’t for everyone. The sooner you book, the more options you’ll have and the cheaper they’ll be.

Sites like Airbnb are also a good option, especially if you’ve got a heap of cash to throw down up front. Unfortunately they’re not necessarily cheap, but you can easily reserve a multi-room place and then find other people to fill the rooms and split the cost. 

When I searched for hotels in October I was seeing rates starting at $300/night and up, so good luck with that.  

WHERE SHOULD I STAY?

Don’t worry about staying near the Sambadrome (where the main Carnival parade happens). It’s far from basically everything and the surrounding area doesn’t have the best reputation at night, so you’re better off only making the trek there for the parade. 

Most of the blocos happen in Zona Sur (the South Zone, where all of the beaches are) and downtown, so you’ll definitely want to stay in one of these areas.

I found Copacabana to be a perfect location—right on the beach, and easily accessible to all of the blocos on the beach and downtown because it’s basically right in the middle. Ipanema and Leblon beaches are beautiful and they say more upscale than Copacabana, but they’re also a bit further from downtown than Copacabana is. Botafogo, Flamengo, and Lapa are also popular tourist spots; especially near the Lapa Arches where tons of people meet for drinks pretty much every day and night during Carnival.

I stayed at the Rio Rockers Hostel about four blocks from Copacabana Beach and felt 100% safe day and night. To the point where I drunkenly walked 15 minutes to McDonald’s with my phone in my hand texting at midnight one night. In retrospect that was an extremely stupid idea and I should’ve been robbed (as others I’d met were robbed in the same area), but hey, sometimes you drink a million caipirinhas and do stupid stuff.

In my opinion, staying near a train station is a great way to get around during Carnival, especially since the streets close down for blocos and it can be difficult to get around them. The trains run 24 hours during Carnival and are always packed with party goers, so it makes the ride between blocos an event in itself. Some of the subway stations will close down too if there’s a bloco happening there, but it’s not difficult to figure out the next closest stop since everyone will be getting off there (in costume and beer in hand). 

If you’re really broke you can check out couchsurfers, but just remember that if they bail last minute you could be left shelling out a ton more money for last-minute lodging.

Here’s a link to some more information about the neighborhoods in Rio: http://www.rio.com/practical-rio/neighborhoods-rio

HOW EARLY DO I NEED TO BOOK TICKETS TO THE SAMBADROME?

For many people (both locals and tourists) a highlight of Carnival is the parade at the Sambadrome. Personally I’m not a fan of parades, so I had absolutely zero intention of going until I developed a severe case of FOMO once I realized basically everyone else in Rio was going.

If you don’t care much about the Sambadrome then you can pick up some cheap last minute nosebleed seats once you’re in Rio. You’ll be able to see the parade, but you might want to bring some binoculars or at least a camera with a decent zoom. However, if you want a good view and comfortable seats you’ll want to purchase tickets as far in advance as possible as they sell out very early—especially for the best parade days. 

I got tickets at my hostel for about $35 the day before and we sat in the very last section on the parade route. Our seats were set back quite a bit from the parade, so it was difficult to see the detail of the costumes with the naked eye. But people were still singing and dancing and having a great time, squeezed elbow to elbow in the stands. Overall it was fun and tolerable for a couple of hours, but be warned that these parades go on literally all night long.

The main parades (i.e. the biggest and best samba schools) are Sunday and Monday, with most people opting for Monday. If you’re a clueless tourist like me you probably won’t recognize much difference between the different schools, so go whichever night is most convenient and affordable for you.

I was also told by locals that you can show up on Monday around 1 or 2AM and try to bargain cheaper seats, so that’s worth a shot too.  

Here’s a bit more info about the samba schools and the parade and tickets.

http://www.rio-carnival.net/rio_carnival/sambodromo-samba-parade-tickets.php

Seats at the Sambadrome
These were our $35 nosebleed seats at the Sambadrome
I’m not sure why there’s such a big gap between the first set of seats and the bleachers.

WHAT ELSE DO I NEED TO BOOK FOR CARNIVAL?

To me, the best thing about Carnival is the street parties. And better yet they’re free and awesome. So you can show up to any of them with a beer in hand and have the time of your life, no need to book anything in advance. 

So really, the only things you should book in advance are flights, hotels/hostels, and Sambadrome tickets. But if you plan on spending any time immediately  before or after Rio in a nearby beach town or island such as Ilha Grande or Paraty, you’re better off to book that in advance also. Lots of people plan to do the same so places can book up a bit in advance if you wait until the last minute. We had to rearrange our plans for the first three days after Carnival because there were no hostels available in Paraty.

Now that you’ve got the basics covered, just save up some money and start counting down the days! There are tons of other celebrations all over Brazil (like the more traditional celebration in Salvador) so if you can swing it, it’s worth checking some of those out too before visiting Rio.

Anything else you’re wondering about planning a trip to Rio for Carnival? Comment below!

Categories
Caribbean Guide Solo Travel South America

HOW TO CELEBRATE NEW YEARS (OR ANY DAY) IN CARTAGENA

I kicked off my multi-month Latin tour by ringing in 2015 in South America’s party city: Cartagena, Colombia. From what I can tell, Cartagena is catching on as a major global tourist destination. Even though the city was packed with mostly Argentinians, it’s clear to see that the stigma of Colombia being a dangerously scary country is starting to go away amongst European and American travelers.

So if you’re planning way ahead on where you might want to spend your next New Years, or just thinking about where to visit next for a girls/guys getaway, here’s some insight to get you swinging your hips in the sweltering Colombian city before it catches on with the masses.

THE BASIC INFO
While there are several historical sights to see, I would definitely classify Cartagena as a party destination. So when you’re sick of Las Vegas, Ibiza, and New Orleans, Cartagena might be a good next. Its proximity to the equator keeps it around a sweaty 90 degrees (F, or 32 C) all year long (with humidity to match). It’s a vibrant city that seems to be full of people looking to have a good time. You can carry alcohol on the streets, and on holidays like New Years most of the open-air bars spill out onto the streets, restaurants and cafes take over entire squares, and live music shuts down every street in the Old City.

The traffic is insane, making New York almost laughable by comparison. Cars and motorbikes drive in seemingly nonexistent lanes, stop at the very last second, and haul ass around every corner. Swarms of pedestrians fill every gap between bumpers and on the sidewalks at intersections. Taxis here are cheap and plentiful though, so avoid the stress of driving and take a cab when you need to get somewhere far off.

WHERE TO STAY
The main touristy neighborhoods of Cartagena are the Old City, Getsenami, and Bocagrande.

Cartagena Old City
Plaza de la Aduana in the Old City
Old City
The colorful streets of the Old City have way more foot traffic than vehicles.


The Old City is full of beautiful, colorful European/Spanish/Caribbean style buildings (at leas that’s how it looked to me, I’m no architecture buff), outlined by narrow streets held tight within the old city walls. On New Years Eve most of the streets are closed to traffic. Instead, every intersection fills with live music and countless people dancing the night away with Aguardiente in hand. It’s impossible not to have a blast while making your way from party to party. This is the area where you’ll find those beautiful sunsets from Cafe del Mar, tons of shopping, and a more European feel.

Getsenami is the backpacker’s area which seems to be a little more rough around the edges, but still feels safe. This area is only a few blocks from the old city, and is full of hostels, cafes, pizza shops, and bars, set right among houses where you can look inside any open door or window and see a family eating dinner or watching television in their living room. Kind of makes you wonder just how “dangerous” a place can really be when everyone’s home is basically wide open, right on the street.

Bocagrande
Luxury in Bocagrande


Bocagrande is I guess like a Colombian Miami. It’s the peninsula of shiny bright skyscrapers that you’ll see first when you fly in. I hear it’s for the rich peoples, which is why I didn’t spend much time there. I am not a rich people. On New Year’s Day I walked from the Old City to the beach in Bocagrande in about 45 minutes along Santander. The beach was packed, and certainly nothing special with dingy water, meh sand, and right across the street from a giant shopping mall. If you’re going to do the beach don’t waste your time on Bocagrande. Head to Playa Blanca or the Rosario Islands instead.

Playa Blanca
The ridiculously clear waters of Playa Blanca are a hundred times better than the beaches in Bocagrande. If it’s crowded, spend the twenty minutes walking down the beach to escape some of the madness.


BOOK IN ADVANCE DURING HIGH SEASON
If you’re going during high season such as New Years, Christmas, or Carnaval, definitely book in advance. I booked my hotel in October and struggled to find an affordable, decent place. I was looking at a budget of under $50/night which eliminated pretty much every hotel. And all of the recommended hostels were already booked up as well. Luckily I came across the poorly reviewed Hotel San Felipe for about $48/night, but I found it to be perfect for what I needed. It was double the price through most hotel booking sites, but I managed to get it half off on hostelworld.com. Lots of backpackers told me they had trouble showing up and finding room even for one traveler. A few of them had to keep moving between hostels every day because they couldn’t find vacancy for their entire stay.

A few people I met couchsurfed with people outside of the touristy neighborhoods and had absolutely fantastic experiences hanging out at the local bars and paying less than $1 for a beer. As Colombians have been so incredibly welcoming and genuinely nice from my experience, I say if you can find a couchsurfing opportunity, go for it!


LEARN SPANISH
I thought that the hotel staff would at least speak a little English but they did not. Some of the hostel staff spoke a bit, but it definitely helps to know enough Spanish to help you get around and pay for things. Obviously the more Spanish you know the better off you’ll be, and the deeper and more authentic your experience will be too. From my experience Colombians are insanely happy to chat with foreigners and help them practice their Spanish. You’ll meet so many more people and engage in so many more memorable conversations if you just attempt to speak to them in their language. If you’re too timid like I was, drink a couple of beers and give it a go. It’s like they light up when you attempt to communicate in their language.


STAY SAFE
Overall, use your common sense and you should be absolutely fine in Cartagena. But traveling to developing cities in Latin America call for some additional precautions that you might not practice in say, Paris or New York. For example, I would freely walk around most US and European cities with my DSLR strapped across my chest, or use my iPhone as a map while wandering the streets aimlessly. I didn’t really pull out either one in Cartagena very often, as to not draw any more attention to myself as a target for being robbed. Maybe it’s a little paranoid, but poverty in this area was very real and obvious, so I also kind of felt like a dick flaunting that stuff around. You just don’t see it anywhere.

Whenever possible, have the hotel/hostel call you a taxi or book one through an app like Tappsi. Apparently there are some shady unofficial drivers out there who will take you to a secluded area, and before you know it some randoms are jumping in the car to rob you of your belongings. Also, again on the borderline paranoid front, you should always have your windows up, doors locked, and keep your cell phone, camera, and wallet in your pockets. I’ve heard numerous stories from Cartagena and beyond of people being robbed at gunpoint while at a red light, and the taxi driver does absolutely nothing about it but sit there and wait for the light to change. And with the way people weave their way in and out of parked cars at the street lights, it’s easy to see how this can happen so quickly and easily.

Keep your bag strapped on you and in full site at all times. A girl I’d met in Cartagena had her bag stolen from the back of her chair while eating at a cafe in Plaza de la Trinidad. Once she realized what had happened she immediately told the cafe staff, who worked quickly to watch the surveillance and identify the thieves. Hours later when she’d already gone to bed, the thieves returned to the cafe where they were busted by the staff. She got a call to head down to the police station, where she met the thieves face to face. Unfortunately they had already sold her stuff, but the police at least made them give her the money they made from the sale. Sadly this kind of thing happens ALL over the world, especially in hot tourist destinations. And most Colombians I’ve met seem genuinely disgusted with people like this. Their country has transformed so much over the past few decades and they’re finally welcoming tourists and even able to travel the country themselves. The last thing they want is for a few bad guys to ruin their country’s transforming reputation.

If you’re a solo female traveler, just take the usual precautions and you’ll be fine. I thought I’d be a prime target for men to catcall me on the street and aggressively try to pick me up in bars (not that I think I’m hot shit or anything, it just tends to happen a lot in places where my light skin/hair/eyes is a minority), but I can honestly say that that rarely happened in Cartagena. Maybe it’s because I’m getting older and I’ve “lost it,” but I’m told that Colombian men are actually quite timid. I’m not sure about that, but I do know that I was hit on and cat-called more on any given day in New York than I was during my entire stay in Cartagena.

If you choose to buy drugs in Colombia, best of luck to you. I have no firsthand experience with that, but I met a group of Australians who claimed they followed some guy that they’d already bought stuff off of before into some house, where they were robbed of everything they had on them at knifepoint. Also I don’t think the police have much tolerance for tourists doing drugs so again, good luck.

And for fuck’s sake, get the hell out of the hostel, get away from the backpacking crowds, and go enjoy the city with some locals. Meeting these people who stick to the hostel scene and only party with other foreigners blows my mind. You’re going to Colombia for a different experience, so go experience it. Don’t get caught up in the same familiar, English-speaking comfort zone you have back home. You don’t have to know perfect Spanish to try new foods, enjoy good music, or have a Colombian teach you how to dance.

If you do decide to go celebrate the new year in Cartagena…

WHAT YOU SHOULD BE DOING AT MIDNIGHT
Making out with a hot Colombian! Okay, okay, perhaps that’s not exactly in your cards for whatever reason. Luckily there are plenty of parties to choose from, but almost all of them come with a hefty price tag. I didn’t do one of these, but if that’s your scene I would advise you to book early to save a bit of cash. I met several people who booked last minute tickets to some of the most well-known parties and managed to get in just fine, but they PAID for it.

Expect to pay at least $75 for a BYOB & food event, $125 for a fancy fireworks & yacht cruise, and upwards of $200/$300 for an all-out rave/concert with well-known Latin artists.

I chose not to buy a ticket in somewhere because 1-I didn’t want to be confined to just one place the entire evening, especially if it sucked, and 2-I hate spending money just to get into a place. So pretentious.

Luckily you don’t need to shell out a fortune to have a good time on New Years. I met up with a Colombian from couchsurfing and a few other people she’d recently met through friends. We went for tapas, bought a few bottles of beer and some Aguardiente, and walked over to see the fireworks in the Old City. The fireworks definitely weren’t as hardcore as I thought they were going to be (I guess I’m spoiled by the Macy’s Fourth of July show), but they were being lit off only about 100 feet away from us into a crowd full of people so that was pretty sweet. They lit them off near Cafe del Mar, just outside of the wall, so grab some drinks and head to the lawn just before midnight for a front row view.

Fireworks

NYE DJ Parties
One of the many random street parties where DJs blasted music all night while people danced their way through the streets.

DON’T PLAN ON SLEEPING
I lived in New York for eight years and after many nights of seeing the sun rise in a drunken stupor, I thought that city never slept. But I think Cartagena may have New York beat. Again, I am getting older, but after my night of drinking and dancing I was ready for bed at about 330am. As I made my way back to the hotel the parties were still going strong. Most of them had moved off the streets and indoors now, but I was told some would last until well into the afternoon on January 1st. Then on January 3rd I woke up at 3am to loud booms, only to look out my window and see a full on firework show going on AT THREE IN THE MORNING. What the hell?

Cartagena is still relatively cheap for US residents to travel to. Right now 1 USD is equal to about 2300 Colombian Pesos, putting beers at about $1/$1.50, and most basic meals well under $10. Also it’s cheap to get here on a budget airline like JetBlue and Spirit. I paid $350 one-way for a flight two days before New Years. I think round trip was only slightly more. Regardless, Cartagena is definitely a contender for an unforgettable, affordable trip, just make sure you’re ready to party and dance!

Categories
Europe Iceland

Black Out Like a Local in Reykjavik

In a city where the sun doesn’t even wake up until 10AM, it’s no surprise that the party rages well into the wee hours of the morning. I can’t even imagine what it’s like in the summer when daylight lasts 24 hours.

Prior to last week I’d never heard about this world-famous Reykjavik nightlife. And coming from New York I wasn’t convinced that it would even leave much of an impression on me. Of course this was all before the weekend hit and the bar culture left me feeling a bit more buzzed than the alcohol.

I’ve read and heard that Iceland is a culture where people don’t really frequent the bar during the week, but on the weekends they party. Hard. So we ducked into Ob La Di Ob La Da for a beer on a Wednesday and found ourselves in a room full of men intensely watching the Arsenal v Liverpool match in almost complete silence. It was a little intimidating, but just as the final whistle blew 90% of the place cleared out. The three of us finished our beers to some shitty American pop music and nonstop yawning while discussing our plan to call it an early night. While we were finishing off our beers a group of drunken Canadians came bursting in and within 10 seconds the lights went out, strobes came on, a disco ball started spinning, and Bon Jovi lyrics were on the screen. It was the quickest transformation from a sports dive to a karaoke haven I’ve ever seen. And it was certainly enough to keep us around until being kicked out when the lights came on at 1AM.

Sober as a tree
Sober as a tree: When you need to prove you’re not as drunk as people think you are, stand on one leg and hold both arms out to the side, and tell them you’re “sober as a tree.” If you don’t fall, you’re not too drunk. Keep drinking.

 

We went out again on Friday night and this time the bar—and every bar on Laugavegur—was filled with locals. So we kicked off the night with a traditional Icelandic shot of Brennevin, though the Premium version, which put up a pretty impressive battle all the way down my throat before [very] slowly finding its way into my stomach. It fought hard to make its way back out, and the beer chaser did absolutely nothing but amplify the disgusting burn. We were informed that Brennevin is a traditional Icelandic liquor made from fermented potato and flavored with things like cumin and caraway. They say it’s similar-ish to vodka, but I think it was pretty comparable to hell. I’ll stick to my shots of whiskey.

When I arrived at the pub around 11pm I was amazed at how sloppy people were. They weren’t just drinking to be social, the entire bar was drinking to forget the horrible decisions they were about to make. It was as if the entire city was on a mission to get blackout drunk (and in a rare turn of events, I didn’t feel like joining them). Stumbling, leaning on walls, rambling the worst pick-up lines ever mumbled in an attempt to take somebody, anybody home. And the men didn’t take the polite brush-off or the downright bitchy cold shoulder very well. In fact, one guy tried to tickle my sideboob when I rejected his drunken slurs and didn’t understand why I was appalled.

 

Icelandic beer
Delicious Icelandic beer

 

Despite the frigid weather causing my inability to dress in anything more fancy than the sweater, fat jeans, and “boots with the fur” I wore every night we went out, locals were dressed rather sharp and on the prowl. But as soon as I noticed how wrecked everybody else was, my desire to get wasted and party down completely diminished.  I knew I wouldn’t be in good hands and the outcome of the evening could be downright scary given such a potently drunk surrounding. So I made my way home and to bed by 1am partially because I had to be up at 730 for an all day excursion and snowmobiling trip.

Iceland was fantastic but I think I appreciated it much more for the nature outside of Reykjavik, not so much the inter-city nightlife. But there’s still a strong part of me that feels like this was fate, discovering an entire country of people who black out as naturally as I do, almost as though it’s just another ordinary night. Could this possibly be a place where I could go about my business and not get judged? Or perhaps it would just be a giant shit show where I’d end up stranded with other blacked-out alcoholics, frostbitten and stuck to a glacier when the sun comes up at 10.

I guess I’ll have to give Reykjavik nightlife a second shot when I’ve prepared myself for nonstop partying. Maybe I’ll go back in the summer and pull some all-nighters.

Categories
Caribbean

Full Moon Party at Bomba’s Shack

I hate to admit it, but I was completely oblivious to the full moon parties of Thailand before booking my trip to the BVI. But thanks to the internet, a quick Google search showed me photos: minimal clothing, flaming jump ropes, glowing body paint, endless shots, and sand-covered bodies passed out in the sand. Though it did look like an STD-ridden, overcrowded, sweaty mess, I was tempted. Sign me up.

So you can imagine my excitement after learning about the Full Moon Parties at Bomba’s Shack in the BVI. But another Google image search showed me hardly the same scene: tame partying, sober faces, and a bit more conservative crowd of Hard Rock Cafe t-shirt donning tourists posing for photos. But Bomba’s Shack was just up the hill from our resort, so we spent our final evening in Tortola partying with the locals.

 

Get naked, get a free tshirt
Bomba’s truck

Bomba’s shack is exactly that—a shack built from what appears to be tons of scraps and debris that has washed ashore. Tattered, dirty underwear adorned the walls that look as though the slightest breeze will send it crumbling  right into the ocean that lies just steps away. There’s Sharpie-scribbled writing on nearly every conceivable surface, and of course, everybody is on island time. Oddly enough, it did look like the kind of bar that’d be jam-packed any given night in the LES of New York.

Bomba’s Shack
The panties

Intrigued by stories of others’ Full Moon Party celebrations, and intoxicated by the hopeful anticipation of a wildly fun evening I’d be struggling to remember in the morning, I got suckered into buying the $50 wristband for a night of unlimited alcohol and mushroom tea. It seemed like a good excuse to ignore my rational self from trying to keep my shit together as much as possible for my early AM flight. I figured I’d leave it up to the fate of my “how much I can drink : how many hours until the 6am ferry” ratio.

I immediately bee-lined past the flashing lights, live music, and drunk dancing, straight into the dark, secluded corner of the lot to get some tea. There was a makeshift bar set up thats only light was from the full moon and the flame beneath the boiling pot of  mushroom tea. The guy serving up the tea was the exact image of a guy you’d normally steer clear of if you saw him walking down the street in New York in broad daylight. Even if it means walking a block out of your way. He was speaking gibberish and he wouldn’t give me any tea unless I walked over to him behind the bar.

The teamaster, succeeding at freaking me out

Having never done drugs in my life, I was a bit nervous about the effects of this mushroom tea so I was double fisting a scalding hot mug and a backup vodka pineapple. Suddenly my mind was racing. Was it strong? Would I trip instantly, or is it the kind of thing that would take a while to set in? Would I realize I was tripping? Would I trip at all? Having not done my research, I didn’t know if it was strong stuff, nor did I really want to find out when I’m 1,700 miles from home with no cell service, and an early flight to catch. So after I started to feel the vodka kick in I called it quits after one cup of tea.

Before long we were dancing in the crowds of people to live music, and I felt a dog suddenly nibbling on my toes as they kicked out of the sand. We were there just a week after carnival so apparently most of the tourists had left by then, but every other person we had met during our 5 days of island hopping was at this party. We met tons of people, including some guys from New York that I was so nice as to get free drinks with my unlimited wristband, and this guy who’s souvenir was to have everyone sign his shirt. So I drew a smiley face along with my name around his nipple.

My dancing partner, who thought my toes looked like dog treats
Souvenir nipple signing!

Then hours of dancing followed by an increase in being hit on, until most of the couples were calling it a night and the locals were out to pick up any leftover single, drunk tourists they could run off with. The Full Moon Party was coming to an end. And I wasn’t nearly as drunk as I’d thought I’d be for $50.

Guys who claimed to be from New York
Stephanie & I with Eric our cab driver

We headed back to the room to finish packing up the remnants of a wonderful vacation for a 6a ferry back to the airport in St Thomas. Luckily we made it on time with only mild hangovers, but the BVI’s couldn’t send us off without one last adventure: the ferry caught on fire in the middle of the ocean. We didn’t see any flames, just choked on the thick smoke that was pouring in from under the floorboards. Luckily it wasn’t too bad, and after vocalizing several Titanic-like concerns, we were able to swap ships and make it to St Thomas just in time for our ironically delayed flights.