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Europe

Is Theft on the Rise in Paris?

On New Year’s Eve there was news of thieves getting away with $1.3M worth of gear at the Apple store.

Two weeks ago my work partner who is doing the life swap with me had his backpack stolen while sitting in the McDonald’s across from Gare du Nord.

Hell, thieves are even breaking into museums and trying to saw off elephant tusks for a quick buck.

Is it just me or is theft on the rise in Paris? Or maybe before I was just more naive than I thought, and traveling with my super-cautious mother has me just now noticing it? To be fair, I’ve only been to Paris twice—my first time in September 2011 and my second this past weekend. But I definitely felt more on edge this time around and noticed much more suspicious behavior around me.

When we arrived at Gare Du Nord it seemed as though our entire sold-out train had beat us in line at the ticket machine for the metro. So I set my mom off to the side with her two carry-on bags while I went in search of more machines, backpack and shoulder bag in tow. Once I got to a slightly shorter line at the opposite end of the station, a man approached me asking if I wanted to buy a train ticket from him. Immediately afterwards an older woman cut in front of me frantically claiming she was late for a train in French. It seemed a bit strange, but I didn’t make much of it since neither one came within two feet of me and I had all of my valuables securely tucked away.

When I got the tickets I went back to my mom who was white-knuckling both bags and refusing to take her eyes off a group of young boys. I looked over as she whispered to me what she witnessed in those 15 minutes.

There were a group of three nice enough looking guys wandering amongst the crowd. I only saw the one (dark hair, medium complexion, leather jacket) as he scoped out his next victim. Minutes before he had approached my mom asking if she needed help. She told him no, and he moved along towards the ticket machines. A group of English speaking tourists accepted his offer of help, and he grabbed the credit card they were using with the same hand that was also holding a small machine (possibly stealing credit card information?) before helping them complete their purchases. After they got their tickets they thanked him and were on their way. But then he motioned to one of his friends to follow the group who were heading towards the M4. And he did.

It really disturbed me that my mom had only been in Paris for twenty minutes and already she’d witnessed this. Especially since this was her first time ever leaving the United States and she was already a bit of a nervous wreck.

So I did some reading up on theft in Paris, and though I shouldn’t have been, I was surprised to read how huge of a problem it is and has been. As it turns out, Paris has been rated one of the top ten pickpocketing cities in the world on TripAdvisor.

What’s sad is that nearly half of the pickpockets arrested in Paris are minors. And they’re not at all thug-looking lowlifes. Some of them are fashionable groups of pretty girls, or even young girls carrying babies. Apparently they roam the RER and metros near tourist spots looking for vulnerable passengers to catch off guard. There’s even some more aggressive groups who will surround you by shoving their clipboards at you, asking you to sign their petition while they rifle through your bag, or simply grab it and run.

It doesn’t even sound like a matter of being in the wrong place at the wrong time. They scope you out and follow you, waiting for the right time to strike.

Another thing that isn’t quite as scary but still equally WTF-worthy; in London my mom saw something on TV about a gold ring scam. She told me over dinner one night that a person will bend down in front of you and appear to pick up a gold ring, asking if it’s yours. She wasn’t sure exactly what they did next, and I didn’t bother to look into it as I generally don’t speak to shady people in the streets anyway. Then one day in Paris we were walking along the Seine River near the Pont Royal when a woman bent down in front of us to pick up a ring. Immediately my face lit up and I looked at my mom like, “holy shit what happens next? Does she jump us? Pickpocket us?” so we hurriedly blew her off with a “Psh, nice try” and continued walking. But after telling Marcus (who’d just had his bag stolen in Paris the weekend prior) I found out what happens because he’d fallen for the gold ring trick that weekend as well. If you take the ring they’ll hand it over and walk away. Moments later they’ll come back trying to get a few Euros off of you. Obviously they feel you owe it to them since they just gave you a gold ring. I don’t know who in the hell would fall for that, but at least it’s kind of your own fault if you give them money.

I snapped this window reflection shot shortly after being approached by a "gold ring scammer." Funnily enough she ended up in the shot. She's the one hunched over towards the middle of the reflection.
I snapped this window reflection pic shortly after being approached by a gold ring scammer. Funnily enough she ended up in the shot. She’s the one hunched over towards the middle of the reflection.

 

I guess I’m writing about this because it’s disturbing to think that I’ve more than likely been a target, and probably more than once. I can’t help but think about how many close encounters I was unaware of, especially as a frequent solo female traveler. Sure I’ve always heard about pickpockets and people setting their stuff down only to turn around and see it gone, but it’s creepy to know these people have such intricate plans for getting your stuff. I’d like to think of myself as a fairly aware traveler, especially after growing up with a mother so observant as mine, but I never realized how oblivious I was to these things going on around me. I just hope that in letting others know about the extensive lengths these thieves go to, I might help prevent at least one person from carelessly leaving their bag unzipped as they get help buying a train ticket.

But my real question is why do authorities seem to do nothing about it? It’d be such a shame to see such a beautiful city turn into a worrisome place for travel. Don’t get me wrong, other than constantly looking out I didn’t feel unsafe in Paris (even with the sudden swarm of 11 police vans at Jardins Du Trocadéro or the evacuation of the Eiffel Tower on Saturday due to a bomb threat). I just felt much more alert, and as a result I noticed much more of the unromantic side of Paris. The first time I was too busy gawking at the architecture so I remained blissfully unaware of any dangers. I just went about my business while carrying on with my normal common sense and I was fine.

What do you think? Have you had any experiences like this in Paris, or do you feel safe there? Are there any cities you’ve been to that seem worse?

Categories
Europe

The Art and Royalty of France

I could’ve easily spent my entire time in Paris strolling through the extensive world class museums with my rainy day mix playing through my headphones. But I hardly even scratched the surface because the weather was too perfect not to be getting lost outside. Oh and that whole “I have no money” thing was a minor factor. But I did make it a point to check out the Louvre and Musée Rodin, and make the trek out to the Palace of Versailles.

The Louvre was majestic. The perfect architecture was complemented by the perfect landscaping. The interior was like a fairytale palace adorned with pieces only fabled in the art history books of my college years.

Really, the Louvre was just Louvrely. Okay I apologize for the cheese. I’m done writing. Forever. Actually no, that’s a total lie. But I’ll spare you the lame puns and share some pics.

What a Louvrely tree!
I want to slide down that glass so bad
Oh this interior garden area was disgustingly ugly, clearly
When I build a house I’m going to make the front entrance like this
Cupid’s Kiss (aka second base)
Turning the corner and seeing this literally took my breath away. Without a doubt my favorite piece I’ve ever seen in any museum, ever.
So beautiful
Size doesn’t matter in the art world
Finally pushed my way to the front for a pic
A semi-awkward pic of me outside of the Louvre

On my last day in Paris we were trying to dodge the intermittent showers by hiding out in museums so we bought a pass for admission to the Rodin Museum and the Marmottan Monet Museum. I just wish we hadn’t stopped for cheese and whiskey in between because we ended up getting to the Monet Museum four minutes after the last admission. And there was no refund. Fail.

The Thinker
Roses in the gardens at the Rodin Museum


The Gates of Hell
Really awesome use of mirrors here
I can almost hear a scream
Monet!
These expressions are mildly frightening but fully awesome
Looks like more than just a kiss to me…
The Thinker

One particularly warm day we jumped on the RER and headed out to Versailles. The palace was almost overwhelming with its elegance. It was ridiculously ornate and as expected, absolutely gorgeous. After touring the inside I highly recommend renting a bicycle and biking the gravel pathways for the afternoon. Just don’t do it in a short dress like I did.

For a second I questioned whether or not I was actually dead and standing at the gates of Heaven
Laying in the grass after a sweaty bikeride
The pristine landscaping at the Palace of Versailles
Endless windows and plenty of natural light, no big deal
A little bummed that we didn’t catch a fountain show
Wardrobe malfunction
These made me hungry for BBQ ribs
The massively gawdy yet beautiful Hall of Mirrors
Chandelier in the Hall of Mirrors

Categories
Europe

An American Tourist in Paris

I’ve heard tons of stories from my friends who’ve supposedly gone to Paris and lived off wine and bread for something ridiculous like $3 a day. So even with the shitty USD to Euro conversion rate I wasn’t too worried about going to Paris without much more than a Sub Club card in my wallet. Well I’d like to know where the hell they were getting their wine and bread, because it definitely wasn’t that cheap for me.

To say I was on a tight budget would be an understatement. I had no budget. Technically I couldn’t afford to spend a single dollar so the majority of my trip was spent touring the city by foot. I didn’t get to experience nearly as much food as I’d wanted, and the one time I did “splurge” on a steak dinner it tasted like a freezer burnt patty of mystery meat. Fail. Breakfast was almost always a pain au chocolat and orange juice. Lunch was a ham and cheese sandwich or Croque Monsieur, and dinner was usually a bottle glass of red wine and a banana and Nutella crepe. Yes, I missed out on the perfectly prepared fish, steamed mussels and endless cheese plates. But that just gives me a reason to go back!

Mmm Croque Monsieur
I don’t think the French take home leftovers. Thankfully the waiter was able to dig up this container for my broke, fat ass
A mediocre cheese plate that was made worse by pairing it with an Irish Whiskey
Sidewalk wine
My last meal, au revoir Paris!

I never even thought twice about hitting the pavement from sunup to well past sundown because I could literally spend days on end gawking at the architecture around Paris. Everywhere you look, gothic style. Flying buttresses. Pointed arches. Prime photographic opportunities. No matter which way you turn there’s something to look at.

I want to live here
Beauty of epic proportions

I was completely content with just playing tourist the entire time I was in Paris. Notre Dame, The Louvre, Champs-Élysées, the Seine River, biking at Versailles. Every day was filled with gorgeous sites. I won’t bore you with the tourist info that you can find on just about any other site, but I will say that even the most touristy sites in Paris still maintain a touch of class. Take note, USA!

Couples. Everywhere.
I couldn’t figure out how to dodge past that constant flow of traffic to get to the Arc de Triomphe…
Autumn in Paris. And the infamous metro signs.
The lovely Luxembourg Gardens. Give me a good book and I could stay here all day. Like this guy.
Strolling down the brick road along the Seine River
I would be honored to live under this bridge
I felt like I was in an Adele video
The view was totally worth the climb up the spiral staircase of Notre Dame
How can you not love this city?
Sacré Coeur at night
Moulin Rouge
I’d also be plenty happy living right here too

I had an epiphany in Paris. I realized that I absolutely love Gargoyles. Seeing them keeping a watchful eye on the city from the top of Notre Dame was mystifying. Their faces are oddly realistic and they give off this vibe like they’re about to jump to life and start shrieking in a Tales From the Crypt manor.

Sacré Coeur in the distance
My favorite juxtaposition
The scariest Gargoyle of them all

For the first half of my trip I was paying $50/night for a room in an apartment that I found on airbnb. It was in the trendy sixth arrondissement, and there was another New Yorker, Mike, renting out a second bedroom in the same apartment. One night we went out on Rue des Canettes, a small side street where you can get drunk and fill up on pizza and crêpes without walking more than 10 steps. Does it get any better than that? We went into Comptoir des Canettes for a glass of wine and to check out the cave-like windowless basement, but left before dying of suffocation. We did a bit of bar hopping after that, everything from pubs to dance clubs, meeting tons of locals and toursits along the way. I don’t know what I expected, but it was almost weird how natural it felt to be in these establishments.

This was right before I was scolded for taking wine outside
Mike and I taking a break at some super loud club. I felt old
This Parisian Jerome and I suffered severe language barriers

That was Paris in a nutshell this time around, but I can’t wait to go back. Until then, enjoy some architecture porn for the Eiffel Tower lovers out there.

Categories
Europe

My Date with a French Man in the Capital of Romance

Aimer et être aimé sera la grande affaire de toute notre vie.” -Rousseau

Paris. The city of romance. My first day in Paris started out just like a fairytale. A newly single, blonde American girl sits down at a sidewalk cafe. Within minutes, straight out of your favorite “that doesn’t happen in real-life” romantic comedy, there’s a glass of red wine on the table from the dark-haired French man inside. Before you know it he’s sitting beside her at the cozy, romantic table for two, as she listens to the deep tones of the romance language infused with broken English. That free glass turns into an entire bottle, then another, while gazing out at the Eiffel Tower. Sounds romantic doesn’t it?

Hardly.

The man who’d sent me a drink wasn’t exactly a Ryan Gosling or Ryan Reynolds look-alike. Or even a “more my type” David Duchovny or Jon Hamm look alike.

My uninvited date

Now I don’t speak much French, but the language of creep is internationally understood. And there was nothing romantic about having absolutely no idea what the hell he was saying since he didn’t speak a word of English. Especially since he couldn’t understand the fact that I had no idea what the hell he was saying. He looked like he was involved in a serious conversation of head nods with my simple attempt at stringing together “Je suis désolé, je ne sais pas” and “Je parle anglais.” Each time I tried to excuse myself the glass was refilled, and I’m not one to say no to free red wine. So I ate dinner, drank wine, and feigned interest in deciphering francophone tongue (no, not the good kind/making out).

My simple but delicious early dinner

Once the bottle was empty I managed to escape with a respectable buzz. I’d planned on spending this perfect Parisian date night with myself, the Eiffel Tower, and some good music so I raced back to the lawn. I staked my ground to the tune of Eric Clapton and watched the light of the sky disappear behind the glow of the Eiffel Tower in a moment of pure drunken happiness.

I didn’t know the Eiffel Tower could get any more beautiful—until the lights turned on


It wasn’t long until I was cursing my afternoon alcohol binge. Drinking would be so much better if it didn’t have to seek revenge on your bladder. My heart wanted to stay on that lawn all night. But unfortunately my shotglass-sized bladder would only allow me to do so with wet pants. So I gathered my things and started making my way back to the apartment before realizing two things: 1- I would never make it all the way to the apartment with dry underwear, and 2- I had absolutely no idea where the apartment was. So I set out to relieve the more imminent problem at the nearest café. Everything was closed.

I made my way back to the place I had lunch and thankfully they were still inside closing up. Apparently the guy who’d been giving me free drinks was a friend of the bartender so there was a group of 5 men slamming some after hour cocktails. I banged on the door in panic and luckily they remembered me. The bartender opened the door and the creepy fellas offered me their drinks. I tried a combination of using the word “bain” and holding my crotch while crossing my legs to convey the urgency of my need to pee. It worked, and I went in the back to take the most amazing urination ever experienced by mankind.

When I came out the drunk men tried getting me to stay for a drink. I told them no and thanked them for letting me use the bathroom. But they insisted. When I tried to walk away they pulled me back and handed me a drink. I set it down and turned away once again. One guy got in my way and offered me another drink. They weren’t at all forceful, but rather cheerful and well, wasted. But I’m not a fan of large men trying to hold me somewhere against my will. The bartender sensed this, smacked two of the mens’ arms out of the way and escorted me out with a smile on his face. I waved goodbye, and navigated my way back to the apartment rather successfully.

L’Hôtel national des Invalides on my journey back to the apartment


I’m not gonna lie. There was a brief moment inside that bar where I was wishing that my dad was Liam Neeson. But that moment of concern passed quickly when I remembered that I had finally seen the Eiffel Tower.

Categories
Europe

How do I love thee? Let me count the ways

The Eiffel Tower. One of the most iconic structures in the world. To some it’s a symbol of romance, to others a structural eyesore. To me, well, I’d been waiting for longer than I can remember to see the iron beauty. I’ve had a longstanding fascination with bridges so Eiffel’s bridge-building influence in creating this glorious tower is the kind of design I love. I could stare at the thing all day long. And I did.

For years I’d tried planning my first international trip to Paris. But as life goes, things kept happening and the trip never happened. So I promised myself that as soon as I got my first real job the first place I was going on vacation would be Paris. So for years I’ve had these reoccurring dreams where I’d travel to Paris but right when I’d turn a corner to get a peak at the Eiffel Tower, something would happen. Either I’d wake up, the helicopter I was in would crash, the city would blow up, someone continuously averted my attention in some other direction, or I just couldn’t find it. I never once got to see the Eiffel Tower in my dreams. I always took this as a sign that I may never see the Eiffel Tower in real life.

On September 6th I took a morning train into Gare du Nord from London. I was determined to keep my eyes glued to the scenery of the French countryside until the Eiffel Tower appeared in the distance. That way just in case I was murdered or “taken” (cue Liam Neeson) on the way to the place I was staying, or a nuclear bomb was dropped on the city, I would have at least died after seeing the Eiffel Tower. I couldn’t bare the thought that I would have traveled all the way to Paris only to have it end just like my dreams. But since I’m like an infant aboard any moving vehicle, I fell asleep on the train and missed the entire ride.

I woke up at Gare du Nord and made my way to the metro, jumping on for a short ride to the place I was staying on Rue de Grenelle. It was only about 4pm so I dropped my bags off and immediately set out for an evening with one simple yet daunting goal in mind: see the Eiffel Tower.

I walked down Rue de Grenelle and up Rue Des Saints-Pères before running into the oh-so-romantic Seine River. With no GPS and too excited to plan ahead, I wasn’t entirely positive where I was going, but I took an educated guess and started walking E/NE. About 20 minutes later I was freaking out. Why could I not see the Eiffel Tower standing out above the rest of the city? Had it spontaneously combusted while I was on my journey? Was I much further away from it than I thought?

Then, it appeared. The tip of the Eiffel Tower. It was unreal. That moment of seeing it for the first time and just walking towards it as more and more of it emerged, until finally I was at the base, staring up.

So here’s my ode to the Eiffel Tower. A series of photographs I took of the beauty herself. No more words are necessary.

And switching it up a bit, the gorgeous view from the tower.