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Asia

Hanging with the Big Cats at Tiger Temple

In case you weren’t aware, tigers are massively huge, strong, and mildly terrifying cats. So how could you not want to cuddle up with one?

Getting face to face with a tiger has been high up on my to-do list for a long time. Probably ever since I found myself sitting front row to a White Siberian Tiger that magically appeared in front of me in a plume of smoke at a Seigfried and Roy show over 15 years ago. So of course I’m going to go spend the day feeding, washing, and playing with them while I’m 10,000 miles from home. Duh.

I actually read a lot of reviews before deciding to make the trip out to Tiger Temple in Kanchanaburi. Yes I wanted to see some tigers, but what fun would they be if they were all drugged up and sleeping all day? Was it really just a refuge of mistreated animals that were ready to seek revenge on an unsuspecting blonde tourist the second she turned her back? Or were these reviews all just from angry hippies who can’t even appreciate a good steak?

I decided to go for it. Partially because it was a chance to escape the Bangkok heat, and partially because, well, there were tigers. Tiger Temple was like a big, wide open dirt zoo. With monks. And the drive entrance was none other than a gigantic tiger mouth, which sadly I didn’t get a decent photo of. There were some very curious goats and deer wandering around, apparently oblivious to the fact that they could be lunch at any minute.

I booked through Tiger Temple Thailand and paid about $160 USD for the entire day which included round trip private transportation from my hotel, a tour of the floating market, a quick stop at the Don-Rak War Cemetery and then the River Kwai Bridge for lunch, the chance to walk, feed, bathe, and play with the tigers, get my picture taken with more tigers, and ride an elephant through the backcountry. Totally worth it.

It was all very orderly and systematic which is the exact thing I hate about organized tours. But we’re dealing with 500 pound animals here, it couldn’t really have been full blown chaos like Disneyland. We had to have a worker with us at all times, and we weren’t allowed to go in front of the tiger or pet its head. A lot of the bigger cats were sleepy, but it was mid-afternoon and hot as hell. I was kind of sleepy myself. They didn’t seem drugged up, they just seemed like they were relaxing and trying to stay cool. But the younger ones were let loose to play with us in the water, and they definitely were not drugged up.

I’m pretty sure my photos can tell a much better story than my words now, so here goes.

On a longboat at the Damnoen Suduak Floating Market, which is enough of an experience for an entirely different blog post.

Monks crossing the River Kwai Bridge
A fellow American from LA insisted on taking this pic for me to show my family
An infamous Thai longboat sitting in the river
The place where we had lunch had segregated seating: tourists in the back, locals in the front
Whoa there, udders
Oh, deer. Is that dinner?
Sadly I only got to walk him long enough to snap a few pics before being frantically forced to hand him off to the next guy
I wonder how much dandruff these guys get from being washed all day long?
Okay feeding the tigers slimy chicken was a little intimidating
Shortly after this photo was taken this tiger clawed a whole in my bag and put an end to my fun. Jerk.

I kept my eye on this guy because 1- he wasn’t on a chain, and 2…
this was him just two minutes before, trying to make a getaway.

Once I started petting this guy’s leg he immediately rolled over for me to pet his inner thigh.
Yes, his inner thigh. Sickos.

About a 20 minute drive from Tiger Temple we went to ride elephants. I was sitting on an elephant while he ate when this snout reached up and poked me in the back.
Couldn’t have found a better place to do some elephant trekking.
The guide told me to put my hand down on the elephant’s forehead, but didn’t tell me that he would raise his trunk like that. I almost fell off. And I did drop a shoe.
Passing locals as we trekked through the backcountry. We exchanged waves like I was in a parade, it was awesome.
I know elephants are smart, but mine kept forgetting to breathe underwater. We had to keep tapping his head and say “come up, come up!” before he would lift his trunk out and take a breath. Yes, I got sprayed several times.

My amazing tour guide. I wish I would’ve written down her name because I know I’d butcher it if I even TRIED to spell it out. But she was an amazingly sweet person who was genuinely concerned with teaching me and making sure I had an awesome experience. Which I definitely did. We took this photo outside of her home before I headed back to Bangkok.

My personal driver for the day. Yet again another incredibly nice person that I actually didn’t mind the small talk with. Note to self: WRITE DOWN NAMES FROM NOW ON!

Categories
Asia

Flat Broke at the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market

I’m a woman who hates shopping. In fact, I actually loathe the idea of pushing my way through crowded stores and digging through stacks of crap just to find one thing I actually want. Plus I’m extremely frugal, so if it’s not an item necessary for comfort or survival, it’s usually gotta be pretty kickass to get me to part with my beloved money. Even when I’m traveling the only souvenirs I usually bring back are things I pick up at the airport with my leftover cash in an attempt to avoid another currency conversion. So why in the hell did I go to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market in Thailand?

Welcome to the biggest tourist trap in Thailand

A little over an hour outside of Bangkok by car, this market appears to exist almost entirely for tourists. I jumped into a narrow longboat with a Thai man and a roaring motor in the back. We sped our way through narrow canals of thick green plants and houses on stilts before reaching the market.

Cruising through the canals, which are clearly not no-wake zones

When we finally got there I was a little surprised. I was expecting to see local Thai people going about their daily exchanges of fruits and vegetables, bartering, and cooking up soups, rice, and meat. But instead it was a congested slew of tourists in longboats led by aging Thai women, being accosted from pushy sellers with unoriginal souvenirs. Guess I should’ve done a bit more research.

Not really what I had in mind when I thought of boating in Thailand

There were hoards of boats full of tourists navigating through the canals under the shade of tarps. I use the word tarp loosely, as they’re mostly riddled with holes or simply just pieces of rope holding nets. Throngs of shops selling clothes, paintings, and keepsakes spilled out into boats selling fruity refreshments and hats. More than once we had to brush elbows with other tourists touting coconuts and SLRs.

The men had motors, the women had paddles
I was intrigued by the woman paddling this boat, but then the guy in the middle caught my attention…
He kind of freaked out after realizing I snapped a pic and covered his face… Hmm…

Weird focal point

I felt a bit uncomfortable. Maybe it’s because I don’t like flea markets, but it probably has more to do with the fact that I didn’t have any money to spend. More than once a woman standing on shore would lure us over and show me some pretty beautiful items that I couldn’t even afford if I wanted to, so all I could say was “it’s very beautiful, but no thank you.” Then they would say something in Thai to my guide and they’d both laugh, which of course made my brain do the whole “are they talking about me?” thing. “Do they think I’m a cheap bitch?”

The guy with the snake was all smiles until I snapped this pic
By looking at this pic you wouldn’t guess that it was about 100 degrees F

I’d hoped to find some awesome, unique nicknack or delicious spices that I couldn’t live without. Instead I found lots of outdated t-shirts (none I would ever wear, ever), unoriginal souvenirs, fresh coconuts, and grilled bananas. The only locals I saw were those running the stands. But just like the rest of Thailand, everybody is trying to sell you something. Except here it’s worse because you’re trapped in a boat with people shouting at you from every direction. My best advice: do NOT make eye contact.

The smell of sweets and grilled bananas masked the murky waters

I’d like to think that I’m a polite person, but I’ve never said “no thank you” so many times in my entire life. By the end those words had lost all meaning and were now becoming increasingly hostile.

I’m not sure if all boats do this or it’s just because I wasn’t buying anything, but they dropped me off at a market at the end of the canal for 15 minutes. I struck up a conversation with the shop owners who were stirring coconut sugar, so they let me give it a go. Then they took the finished mixture and started scooping it out as these fresh new drops of coconut sugar. I tried one, and of course I was hooked. I needed an entire bag immediately. I also picked up some coconut pancakes (which are remarkably similar to ‘nilla wafers) and enjoyed a nice snack on the way back through the market. Having my mouth full became a good excuse not to talk to vendors. Double score!

You can’t really see but I’m sweating my ass off trying to stir this thick stuff
Fresh and delicious drops of coconut sugar

Apparently it’s very easy to bargain your way to a great deal, but if there’s one thing I hate more than shopping it’s bargaining. If you ever go there I hope you have better luck than I did!