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Europe Outdoor Switzerland

JUNGFRAUJOCH: TAKING THE LAZY TRAIN TO THE TOP OF EUROPE

Skydiving has been at the top of my to-do list for the past few years. But in true chick form, I want my first time to be special. I don’t want to pop my free-fall cherry over some boring flatlands. I want to plunge towards the Earth over a landscape that even Bob Ross couldn’t paint. That way if my chute doesn’t open, at least I’ll die with an awesome view. So at the end of my London living experience I flew down to Switzerland with the sole intention of jumping out of an airplane and gracefully falling back to Earth over the Alps. Since April was technically spring I wasn’t too worried about the weather, but knowing how I somehow always end up visiting places during historically wet times, I gave myself three full days in Interlaken to ensure at least one of those days was nice enough to jump.

It never happened. In fact, the mountains never even came out from the damn clouds the entire time I was there. I was getting frustrated. After all the city hopping I’d been doing around Europe I needed some sort of a rush. About the only adrenaline pumping activity that wasn’t shut down was paragliding (post and video coming soon!) which was entertaining and gave me a great view, but it was nowhere near as exhilarating and piss-your-pants awesome as what I’d imagine skydiving would be. So on my last day there, fed up from the months of grey skies, I decided to head above the clouds to Jungfraujoch.

Also marketed to tourists like me as “The Top of Europe,” Jungfraujoch is a mountain pass between the Mönch and the Jungfrau in the Bernese Alps. The journey to the top takes about 2.5 hours via three trains. But like all other Swiss trains I encountered, they operate seamlessly. We set off into the green mountains, seeing waterfalls, rivers, and the most adorable little homes I’ve ever seen under grey skies.

Boarding the train at Lauterbrunnen
Heading up to Jungfraujoch
I could totally live here
Train up to Jungfraujoch
And here

 

The higher we got, the more snow started to fall and accumulate, and before long the ground was covered in about two feet of snow. But the train continued chugging uphill. At some points it was impossible to see out the window, and the final leg on the Jungfrau Railway was almost entirely enclosed in a tunnel. We made a five minute stop at a glass-enclosed lookout point, completely oblivious to what we were going to be able to see. I quickly ran off the train and looked out the window to see that we’d finally made it above the clouds, but not by much. There were snowy mountain peaks beginning to emerge, but still blending into the layer of clouds.

 

Heading up to Jungfraujoch
If I were these people I’d move a few hundred meters down the mountain and out of the snow
Barely above the clouds
The view from the first train stop on the Jungfrau Railway, barely breaking through the clouds
Jungfraujoch
First view of the mountains peeking above the clouds once we went a bit further to the second stop

 

Jungfraujoch is 3,471 m (11,388ft) above sea level which is apparently just enough altitude change to fuck with me. Shortly after I stepped off the train I could tell it was more difficult than usual to breathe. I felt kind of winded, and since my chest was feeling heavy it was proving impossible to catch my breath. (I blame it on the fact that my doctor told me I had slight asthma when I was younger but I chose not to do anything about it.) But since it was hardly enough to be annoying I continued on, rushing through the inside tour so I could spend maximum time snapping pics before the last train down.

 

Jungfraujoch digital experience
Digital tour of Jungfraujoch
Inside tour at Jungfraujoch
Welcome to your brain on drugs
Wooden sculptures at the ice cave
This guy.

 

The walk took me past all sorts of history, paintings, and videos of the area, but probably the coolest part was the Ice Palace of sculptures and tunnels that look like they’d be a hell of a lot of fun with a bobsled.

 

Tunnel at the ice cave
Tunnel leading into the Ice Palace
Ice cave
The floor wasn’t as slick as it looked, even when you ran and slid across it. That or my shoes just had excellent traction.
Licking ice at Jungfraujoch
I like to lick things. And I was kind of tempted to see if my tongue would get stuck. It didn’t.
Bear Sculptures in the ice cave at Jungfraujoch
Too bad these guys were barred off, I would’ve licked them too.

 

Then finally I take an elevator up to the Sphinx Observatory, strapped my GoPro on my head and made my way outside to see the blue skies and snowy mountain peaks that made the journey totally worth it.

 

The Sphinx Observatory
The Sphinx Observatory
Jungfraujoch
The mountains seemed much smaller coming out of the Aletsch Glacier
No clouds up here!
High altitude selfie
The Swiss flag added a nice touch to the blue and white landscape
They looked like they were having fun…
Jumping at Jungfraujoch
So I  made friends and had them take a jumping picture of me
Beautiful view of clouds forming over Mönch

I saw my first mini avalanche from the top of Jungfraujoch

Should you go?

Meh. It was definitely cool to see the kind of view that usually only hardcore climbers get to see. But then again you don’t get that same sense of accomplishment when you’re at the top because you just sat on your ass for two and a half hours to see it.

But you’ll see three awesome peaks of the Bernese Alps (Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau), as well as the Aletsch Glacier which is the largest glacier in the Alps. So that’s cool.

BUT IT IS NOT CHEAP. I didn’t have a Swiss Pass of any kind and I paid $214.35 for the RT train fare. Had I not budgeted $600 for my skydiving experience I would’ve never paid that. Either way, for that price I would’ve liked to have some more of an activity as opposed to sitting on a train for five hours total. You know, like base jumping back down to the ground below.

If you do decide to go, ask the staff at the train station to check their webcams beforehand to make sure the weather up there is okay. And maybe even look into a glacier hike if you’re interested—there seem to be some options if you plan ahead.

There’s a reason Interlaken is known for its extreme sports. And if the weather abides, then most certainly I think your time would be better spent experiencing those. But if you get stuck with shit weather like I did and have an extra couple of hundred dollars to spend, then sure, it’s worth the trek.

Oh, and by the way, the day I left Switzerland there wasn’t a cloud in the sky. Go figure.

Categories
Europe Living Abroad

I’m Back From Europe: A Brief Recap

It’s been a week since I’ve landed back on US soil. And it’s taken me this long to sit down and start writing about it. Mostly because I don’t know where to start. It’s daunting to summarize what I saw, what I did, and what I’ve learned during those 97 days abroad. So let me begin by breaking it down by numbers (disclaimer: numbers are totally not my strong point).

97 days
14 airports
14,027 miles flown
42 hours on airplanes
26 hours on trains
10 trains
2 buses
1 ferry
2 Airbnb’s (3 if you count the one that I stayed at twice)
2 friend’s houses
8 hotels
8,500+ photos

Places visited:
Reykjavik, Iceland
London, England
Amsterdam, Netherlands
Bristol, England
Dublin, Ireland
Dublin, Ireland again
Belfast, Ireland
Northern Ireland Coast (Carrick-a-Rede Bridge, Giant’s Causeway)
Newbury, England
Paris, France
Barcelona, Spain
Interlaken, Switzerland
Jungfrau, Bernese Oberland, Switzerland
Venice, Italy
Rome, Italy
Pompeii, Italy
Amalfi Coast, Italy : Positano, Amalfi
Athens, Greece
Crete, Greece

And yet, here I sit in my New York apartment once again, feeling almost as though I never left. But I know I’ve come back wiser, re-energized, and obviously a wee bit older with a slightly more damaged liver and a new view on living abroad. And on the United States.

To sum it up, that was the quickest 97 days of my life. I didn’t sleep much but I saw more than I ever imagined I could pull off in three months while still working a full-time job and not going into debt. I saw natural phenomenons, snow-covered mountains, and ancient cities that are nearly twelve times older than the United States. I tasted some of the most amazing food I never knew existed, met some incredibly hospitable people while spending time with friends both old and new, and drank enough Guinness to safely assume my body could snap into relapse any day now. I walked across a rope bridge in gale force winds, showed my mom her first international experience, and participated in the chaos that is St Patrick’s Day in Dublin. Of the 14 total weekends I was gone, I spent just four in London and ten traveling around Europe. I quickly adapted to waking up at 3am nearly every Monday morning to catch a flight back to London and straight in to work a full shift. It was a whirlwind of three months, but the best experience of my life.

I’ve learned a lot on this trip. I’ve learned that exploring without a cell phone is not nearly as difficult as it sounds. Turning off the GPS and disconnecting from Twitter and Facebook let me get lost in the city and the moment and enjoy wherever I was with no interruptions.

I’ve also learned that Europe is ridiculously expensive and living there while still getting paid in US dollars is NOT recommended. I spent a shit ton of money, but every penny was absolutely worth it.

I’ve also rekindled my love for New York City, and I’ve got a newfound respect for the United States.

So stay tuned for tons of stories, tips, babblings, and pictures. But in the mean time, here are just a few highlights.

Sunset in Crete
Yes, I took pictures and GoPro’ed the sunset in Crete. Two nights in a row.

 

This would be so much cooler with about 50 less tourists in the photo.
This would be so much cooler with about 50 less tourists in the photo.

 

Feta and honey saganaki and pan-fried cheese in Athens. OH. MY. GOD. AMAZING.
Feta and honey saganaki and pan-fried cheese in Athens. OH. MY. GOD. AMAZING.

 

Showing off my awesome sunburn in the hot tub. Oh, and that's just the Parthenon in the background, no big deal.
Showing off my awesome sunburn in the hot tub. Oh, and that’s just the Parthenon in the background, no big deal.

 

The mind-blowing beauty of the Northern Lights in Iceland.
The mind-blowing beauty of the Northern Lights in Iceland.

 

These were the people who inspired my own jumping spree all over Europe.
These were the people who inspired my own jumping spree all over Europe.

 

I drank so. Much. Guinness. And learned how to pour the perfect pint at the Guinness Academy.
I drank so. Much. Guinness. And learned how to pour the perfect pint at the Guinness Academy.

 

The beautifully lit Colosseum.
The beautifully lit Colosseum.

 

Westminster Abbey on a cold, rainy evening. So like, every evening in London.
Westminster Abbey on a cold, rainy evening. So like, every evening in London.

 

What good is a vacation without a few days in a Greek paradise?
What good is a vacation without a few days in a Greek paradise?