Categories
Asia Europe Solo Travel

MY FIRST TASTE OF TURKEY

The first couple days after returning from vacation are always a struggle—even more so when you know you’ll be jetting off to another exotic location the following week. From jet lag and slowly coaxing yourself out of vacation mode, to gauging your answer to the infamous “how was your trip” questions. Of course it’s a courtesy to ask people how their vacation went, but not everyone really cares. And even then, what part do you tell them about while keeping it brief enough for the water cooler? The food? The sights? The people? The culture? I could talk about my travels all day, but instead I’ve tried to keep it brief amongst coworkers. For the rest who are curious, I’ll share it here.

There will be more detailed posts to follow, but I just need to put it out there: Istanbul is a stunningly beautiful, almost magical city that’s really different from most places I’ve visited. In a very good way. Even though I stayed in ultra touristy Sultanahmet. It seemed like the perfect introduction to a Muslim country since they don’t seem to be very dismissive of Westerners. I don’t have any religious upbringing whatsoever so I’m fascinated by learning all about different faiths. I mean I certainly have my own beliefs, but I’ve actually managed to avoid sharing those with anyone pretty much ever. Well except for one of my exes, but that’s partially why he’s an ex.

Anyway, the city is MASSIVE. I had no idea how big it even was until I went up to Galata Tower and looked out over the city. Then I took a cruise up the Bosphorus to see it was even bigger. For fuck’s sake it spans two continents, of course it’s huge. From above it kind of reminded me of San Francisco times about 100, but with a way different culture and a lot more mosques.

Kebap. Lamb. Lahmacun. Borek. Meze. Baklava. The food was so delicious I’ve actually doubled in size upon returning to the States. Seriously though I’ve never eaten so well on a solo vacation. Usually I’m pretty frugal with what I eat, picking up yogurt and granola bars to get me through most of the day, then eating whatever random cheap dinner I come across in the evening. I usually save a ton of money doing that, but this time I just couldn’t stop myself from over-indulging every time I turned a corner. I never ate the same thing twice (except for baklava, but come on, baklava). The hotel had free buffet breakfast with a perfect rooftop view so I sampled everything they had to offer every morning. I stopped at dessert shops and street carts even when I wasn’t hungry. I splurged on dinner and I went back to the hotel full and happy (with more baklava in hand) every night.

Like most of my trips I went to Turkey alone, but I was rarely by myself this time around. In general the people in Istanbul were almost alarmingly friendly and hospitable. It threw me off a bit because I was always trying to figure out whether they were genuinely nice or if they just wanted to lure me into their family’s shop to buy something (or kill me in a back alley, you know, the standard worries). Waiters gave me free drinks and bar recommendations. Strangers on the street asked me to dinner. Others simply asked where I was from and started a conversation about the US or gave me directions. Yes, the tourist spots were loaded with hagglers and conniving salesmen, but rather than walking through the city ignoring everyone like I do in New York, I actually conversed with nearly everyone who spoke to me. Hell I even approached people myself and made a few friends. In fact I think this was the most “unplugged” solo trip I’ve ever taken, meaning I didn’t walk down the streets listening to my headphones so that strangers wouldn’t talk to me. I made small talk. I listened to everything. I met locals and I hung out with them. I went to Taksim at midnight, which some US news sources have recently portrayed as the “dangerous” part of the city. It wasn’t very dangerous at all. Probably because on this particular night at least, the protests had been replaced by a bunch of drunk kids partying. And a Shake Shack.


The call to prayer is a really beautiful thing to hear. One guy told me that Istanbul has over 2,000 mosques, so to hear these calls come over the loudspeakers and echo throughout the city during the day was absolutely surreal. My first day there I woke up sometime in the 4am hour to hear the first one of the day which completely blew my mind because it was still dark out. Another local later told me that the morning call to prayer has an additional line in it to say something about how God is more important than sleep. I’m guessing that prayer is for the truly faithful Muslims. And right in the middle of the day, seeing men shutting tourists out of their shops in the Grand Bazaar to pray was a sight to see. I mean I’m used to America where capitalism usually trumps religion, so to see people with such a devout religious culture is truly mesmerizing.

Sorting through my 1000+ photos is already leaving me with a serious case of wanderlust. How many days until I go back?

Luckily flights during the off-season are actually pretty cheap (under $500 RT!) to Istanbul, so the likelihood of me going back is actually pretty good. Except next time I’m stopping off in Cappadocia and Pamukkale. Who’s with me?

Categories
Asia

VIDEO: RAINY SEASON IN THAILAND

I finally pieced together some footage from my trip to Thailand last May. But the only thing this video reminded me of was how much I didn’t get on film—or in photos. And how badly I need to go back during peak season. I didn’t get any footage riding in the back of a tuk-tuk, watching the sunset over Bangkok from State Tower, playing with tigers, doing shots with bartenders, running around the beach with a French rugby player, riding up the Chao Phraya River at sunset, walking through ornate temples, or getting violently ill from curry. Nor did I get any footage of the homeless guy who persuaded me to buy rice whiskey at the carryout, the friendly cab driver who couldn’t understand why a young blonde like me was traveling alone, the kids who tried to sell me a bicycle, or the man who’d gone to medical school in New York before returning back to Phuket. But I’ll take this as a learning experience, both for filming and editing.

It’s by no means perfect, and the quality is kind of really shitty. But I just had to pull something together against this song—Sleepwalking Through the Mekong by Morgan Page—since it was basically the soundtrack to my entire trip. Enjoy!

Rainy Season in Thailand 2012 from Just Visiting on Vimeo.

Categories
Asia

Hanging with the Big Cats at Tiger Temple

In case you weren’t aware, tigers are massively huge, strong, and mildly terrifying cats. So how could you not want to cuddle up with one?

Getting face to face with a tiger has been high up on my to-do list for a long time. Probably ever since I found myself sitting front row to a White Siberian Tiger that magically appeared in front of me in a plume of smoke at a Seigfried and Roy show over 15 years ago. So of course I’m going to go spend the day feeding, washing, and playing with them while I’m 10,000 miles from home. Duh.

I actually read a lot of reviews before deciding to make the trip out to Tiger Temple in Kanchanaburi. Yes I wanted to see some tigers, but what fun would they be if they were all drugged up and sleeping all day? Was it really just a refuge of mistreated animals that were ready to seek revenge on an unsuspecting blonde tourist the second she turned her back? Or were these reviews all just from angry hippies who can’t even appreciate a good steak?

I decided to go for it. Partially because it was a chance to escape the Bangkok heat, and partially because, well, there were tigers. Tiger Temple was like a big, wide open dirt zoo. With monks. And the drive entrance was none other than a gigantic tiger mouth, which sadly I didn’t get a decent photo of. There were some very curious goats and deer wandering around, apparently oblivious to the fact that they could be lunch at any minute.

I booked through Tiger Temple Thailand and paid about $160 USD for the entire day which included round trip private transportation from my hotel, a tour of the floating market, a quick stop at the Don-Rak War Cemetery and then the River Kwai Bridge for lunch, the chance to walk, feed, bathe, and play with the tigers, get my picture taken with more tigers, and ride an elephant through the backcountry. Totally worth it.

It was all very orderly and systematic which is the exact thing I hate about organized tours. But we’re dealing with 500 pound animals here, it couldn’t really have been full blown chaos like Disneyland. We had to have a worker with us at all times, and we weren’t allowed to go in front of the tiger or pet its head. A lot of the bigger cats were sleepy, but it was mid-afternoon and hot as hell. I was kind of sleepy myself. They didn’t seem drugged up, they just seemed like they were relaxing and trying to stay cool. But the younger ones were let loose to play with us in the water, and they definitely were not drugged up.

I’m pretty sure my photos can tell a much better story than my words now, so here goes.

On a longboat at the Damnoen Suduak Floating Market, which is enough of an experience for an entirely different blog post.

Monks crossing the River Kwai Bridge
A fellow American from LA insisted on taking this pic for me to show my family
An infamous Thai longboat sitting in the river
The place where we had lunch had segregated seating: tourists in the back, locals in the front
Whoa there, udders
Oh, deer. Is that dinner?
Sadly I only got to walk him long enough to snap a few pics before being frantically forced to hand him off to the next guy
I wonder how much dandruff these guys get from being washed all day long?
Okay feeding the tigers slimy chicken was a little intimidating
Shortly after this photo was taken this tiger clawed a whole in my bag and put an end to my fun. Jerk.

I kept my eye on this guy because 1- he wasn’t on a chain, and 2…
this was him just two minutes before, trying to make a getaway.

Once I started petting this guy’s leg he immediately rolled over for me to pet his inner thigh.
Yes, his inner thigh. Sickos.

About a 20 minute drive from Tiger Temple we went to ride elephants. I was sitting on an elephant while he ate when this snout reached up and poked me in the back.
Couldn’t have found a better place to do some elephant trekking.
The guide told me to put my hand down on the elephant’s forehead, but didn’t tell me that he would raise his trunk like that. I almost fell off. And I did drop a shoe.
Passing locals as we trekked through the backcountry. We exchanged waves like I was in a parade, it was awesome.
I know elephants are smart, but mine kept forgetting to breathe underwater. We had to keep tapping his head and say “come up, come up!” before he would lift his trunk out and take a breath. Yes, I got sprayed several times.

My amazing tour guide. I wish I would’ve written down her name because I know I’d butcher it if I even TRIED to spell it out. But she was an amazingly sweet person who was genuinely concerned with teaching me and making sure I had an awesome experience. Which I definitely did. We took this photo outside of her home before I headed back to Bangkok.

My personal driver for the day. Yet again another incredibly nice person that I actually didn’t mind the small talk with. Note to self: WRITE DOWN NAMES FROM NOW ON!

Categories
Asia

Flat Broke at the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market

I’m a woman who hates shopping. In fact, I actually loathe the idea of pushing my way through crowded stores and digging through stacks of crap just to find one thing I actually want. Plus I’m extremely frugal, so if it’s not an item necessary for comfort or survival, it’s usually gotta be pretty kickass to get me to part with my beloved money. Even when I’m traveling the only souvenirs I usually bring back are things I pick up at the airport with my leftover cash in an attempt to avoid another currency conversion. So why in the hell did I go to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market in Thailand?

Welcome to the biggest tourist trap in Thailand

A little over an hour outside of Bangkok by car, this market appears to exist almost entirely for tourists. I jumped into a narrow longboat with a Thai man and a roaring motor in the back. We sped our way through narrow canals of thick green plants and houses on stilts before reaching the market.

Cruising through the canals, which are clearly not no-wake zones

When we finally got there I was a little surprised. I was expecting to see local Thai people going about their daily exchanges of fruits and vegetables, bartering, and cooking up soups, rice, and meat. But instead it was a congested slew of tourists in longboats led by aging Thai women, being accosted from pushy sellers with unoriginal souvenirs. Guess I should’ve done a bit more research.

Not really what I had in mind when I thought of boating in Thailand

There were hoards of boats full of tourists navigating through the canals under the shade of tarps. I use the word tarp loosely, as they’re mostly riddled with holes or simply just pieces of rope holding nets. Throngs of shops selling clothes, paintings, and keepsakes spilled out into boats selling fruity refreshments and hats. More than once we had to brush elbows with other tourists touting coconuts and SLRs.

The men had motors, the women had paddles
I was intrigued by the woman paddling this boat, but then the guy in the middle caught my attention…
He kind of freaked out after realizing I snapped a pic and covered his face… Hmm…

Weird focal point

I felt a bit uncomfortable. Maybe it’s because I don’t like flea markets, but it probably has more to do with the fact that I didn’t have any money to spend. More than once a woman standing on shore would lure us over and show me some pretty beautiful items that I couldn’t even afford if I wanted to, so all I could say was “it’s very beautiful, but no thank you.” Then they would say something in Thai to my guide and they’d both laugh, which of course made my brain do the whole “are they talking about me?” thing. “Do they think I’m a cheap bitch?”

The guy with the snake was all smiles until I snapped this pic
By looking at this pic you wouldn’t guess that it was about 100 degrees F

I’d hoped to find some awesome, unique nicknack or delicious spices that I couldn’t live without. Instead I found lots of outdated t-shirts (none I would ever wear, ever), unoriginal souvenirs, fresh coconuts, and grilled bananas. The only locals I saw were those running the stands. But just like the rest of Thailand, everybody is trying to sell you something. Except here it’s worse because you’re trapped in a boat with people shouting at you from every direction. My best advice: do NOT make eye contact.

The smell of sweets and grilled bananas masked the murky waters

I’d like to think that I’m a polite person, but I’ve never said “no thank you” so many times in my entire life. By the end those words had lost all meaning and were now becoming increasingly hostile.

I’m not sure if all boats do this or it’s just because I wasn’t buying anything, but they dropped me off at a market at the end of the canal for 15 minutes. I struck up a conversation with the shop owners who were stirring coconut sugar, so they let me give it a go. Then they took the finished mixture and started scooping it out as these fresh new drops of coconut sugar. I tried one, and of course I was hooked. I needed an entire bag immediately. I also picked up some coconut pancakes (which are remarkably similar to ‘nilla wafers) and enjoyed a nice snack on the way back through the market. Having my mouth full became a good excuse not to talk to vendors. Double score!

You can’t really see but I’m sweating my ass off trying to stir this thick stuff
Fresh and delicious drops of coconut sugar

Apparently it’s very easy to bargain your way to a great deal, but if there’s one thing I hate more than shopping it’s bargaining. If you ever go there I hope you have better luck than I did!

Categories
Asia

Bangkok: The City of Contradictions

Bangkok is unlike any city I’ve ever been to before. And not just because it’s in Asia. It’s intense, with an energy that somehow forces its way through the incredibly thick air. It’s crowded. It’s hectic. It’s loud. When you find yourself in intersections like Thanon Si Ayutthaya and Thanon Phaya Thai, the constant sound of motorbikes is deafening. And it doesn’t stop, ever. I thought I was ready for it since I’ve lived in Manhattan for nearly six years now and I’m used to the crowds, the pace, and the city life. But Bangkok is just a whole different story.

After only a few short days exploring the bustling streets, my impression of Bangkok is that it’s an extreme mixture of Eastern and Western cultures. It’s the kind of place that is constantly moving to stay ahead of the times while never losing touch of its cultural past. Yet somehow, it works. The contradictions are really mind blowing to see in person. You’re sure to see a little bit of everything which I guess could be said about most places with a population well into the millions. But it seemed so much more pronounced and obvious in Bangkok.

As you can see in the background, this lot was right alongside crazy nice corporate-type buildings

The humidity during the hot season was almost unbearable. It’s a tropical climate with scorching sun and endless miles of concrete underneath a sea of human bodies. But some (generally older) people were dressed like it was a fall day in Wisconsin. Long pants, long sleeved shirts, hats, and sometimes even gloves and face coverings. Is SPF not a thing in Bangkok?

Even their police officers are a contradiction on their little pink girly bikes

The city is full of gorgeous, ornate temples honoring the Buddhist religion. But in between these majestic temples is a city that embraces a sexual nightlife like no other. It’s not street after street of ladyboy hookers like I’d imagined, but the sight of a robed Monk walking past a sign that says Super Pussy is definitely a sight to see.

No, I didn’t see any monks here, but seedy clubs are tucked between every tent in the Patpong Night Market

 

Bangkok is huge, so it doesn’t really have a definitive skyline. But the tallest buildings throughout the city go from modern glass and steel structures right next door to rundown slums and religious temples that gleam with gold.

The architecture here is a crazy mix

As with most countries that aren’t America, the general Thai people seem to have their waistlines under control despite the cramped streets and alleyways full of markets, 711’s, and tempting food carts. Whether you want spicy meat, fresh mango and coconut, or fried grasshoppers, you could get it for only a few Thai Baht any time of day.

The streets of Bangkok, street carts, tuk tuks, cars, and 711

But the thing that really blew my mind goes for pretty much all of Thailand, not just Bangkok. It certainly earned its nickname as The Land of Smiles because the people are so incredibly nice. But they all try to rip you off. Maybe trying to pull a fast one on an unsuspecting tourist isn’t as much of a dick-move over there as it is in the US, but I never suspected the sweet mother of three at the front desk of my hotel to upcharge my  room by 53%.

Have you ever been to Bangkok or another part of Thailand? What did you notice that seems like a living contradiction?

Categories
Asia Money Saving Tips

15 Things I Wish I’d Known Before Traveling to Thailand

I just got back from my biggest trip to date, and if I had to sum it up in one word I’d say: absolutelyinfuckingcredible (stories/proof to come!). I didn’t really know what to expect upon arriving in Thailand, but here are a few tips that could help you out if you’re planning a trip to the land of smiles. Some you’ll find on other travel sites, and others, well I learned them the hard way.

1. EVERYBODY will try to rip you off
Seriously. I thought it would just be the street vendors and tuk-tuk drivers, but no. Even the hotel reservations desk was trying to charge me more than necessary for my room. And they’re all SO FREAKING NICE that you don’t even realize they’re doing it.

2. Be alert and ready to stop whatever you’re doing at 8A and 6P
The Thai national anthem belts out throughout Bangkok twice a day. If you’re in a public place and you hear this, stop whatever you’re doing and freeze in place to pay respect until it’s over. Don’t be like me—the girl walking through Lumpini Park oblivious to the standstill motion of passerbys until about 20 seconds in. And obviously, don’t talk shit about the royal family. Ever. The girl at the front desk of my hotel in Phuket did, and everyone stopped and looked at her as she nervously clamored an apology while speaking up to the ceiling. Then she whispered something about voice recorders to me.

3. Pack long pants and shirts with sleeves
Thailand’s hot but you can’t get away with barely-there daisy dukes and spaghetti straps. Pack some more conservative options for visiting places of worship or you won’t be able to get in. That means covering up your knees and shoulders. Yes if you’re in Bangkok there’s a good chance it will be unbearably hot, and yes it sucks. But while we’re at it, if you’re a woman with blonde hair try not to draw any more attention to yourself with bright dresses and western hemlines. It does not make for a comfortable experience. Cover up. The only people who want to see your cleavage are people you don’t want to see your cleavage.

Past-the-knee shorts and a shirt with sleeves was plenty of coverage for Tiger Temple

4. Always carry a copy of your passport
Apparently it’s a law in Thailand and you can be arrested if an officer stops you and you don’t have the real thing or a copy. Obviously a copy is the safer option for carrying around all day.

5. Always carry tissues
Most places keep toilet paper in the common area near the sinks. But if you’re used to it being toilet-side, you can bet you’ll forget to grab some on the way in on more than one occasion. Avoid the “bum gun + shaking your ass to air dry” combo and just keep some tissue on you at all times. That way, you’re always prepared no matter the situation—even for a squat toilet. Also, hand sanitizer comes in mighty handy.

6.Get ready to put your foot down when you get in a tuk-tuk or a taxi
Immediately they’ll give you some inflated tourist price, so negotiate down. And make sure you reach an agreed upon price before you get in. Think that’s the end of the negotiating? Probably not. Once you’re in they’ll likely tell you that they’re giving you the lowered fare in return for taking you to do some dress/gem shopping along the way. Even when you tell them no ten times (and think you’ve reached a mutual agreement that you would just like to get your destination quickly and hassle-free), watch the path they’re taking you on. I had to jump out of a tuk-tuk after this happened and we turned down a dimly lit alley heading in the opposite direction of my hotel.

Shady ass tuk-tuk driver taking me for the ride of my life through the streets of Bangkok

7. Think twice about using the water for anything
Not only should you not drink tap water in Phuket, but you should also think twice before hand-washing your clothes in the water. I sweat, a LOT, and I wanted to try and get some of the stench out of my clothes before packing them up for a 30hr journey home. I was so proud of myself for this ingenious laundry technique, but the smell that that water left on my clothes is the worst thing I have ever smelled in my entire life. Ever. My backpack still reeks.

8. Be sure you actually want what you’re buying
Money returns aren’t really a thing in Thailand.

9. Beware of rice whiskey
By all means don’t be afraid to try stuff, but don’t take random advice from homeless strangers and try the rice whiskey behind the counter at 7/11 unless you’ve got a serious palette for strong alcohol. I can handle a wide variety of alcohol, but let me tell you—that shit was like ipecac syrup for me.

Do not put this anywhere near your mouth or nose unless you feel like puking

10. Be ready for attention if you’re a woman of non-Thai descent traveling alone
If you’re a single female traveling alone, nearly everyone will ask why your boyfriend isn’t traveling with you. It may feel a bit like prying and a sneaky attempt to find out if you’re DTF when it comes from men, but one Thai woman told me that it is out of genuine curiosity and not meant to be offensive at all.

11. Know what kind of food you can handle BEFORE you go
It’s always great to try new foods, but definitely try and accustom yourself to local cuisines before traveling. Don’t be like me and go all “Man vs Food” style on a gigantic plate of green curry and spicy peppers if you’re not used to spicy foods. Otherwise you’ll end up eating Pepto and Immodium for the next 10 meals and bribing the bellboy to bring you any sort of rehydrating fluid.

F you evil green curry, f you.

12. Thais do not know as much English as you may think
Thais in the tourist-heavy parts of Bangkok and Phuket speak a great deal of English, but not as much as I thought based on my research. It seems they know just enough English to do their jobs, but aside from that don’t be surprised if you don’t have much further of a conversation. Also, many have not heard of New York City (gasp)!

13. Traveling alone during rainy season may limit your activities
You might not want to head to Thailand during rainy season if you’re traveling alone and you’re interested in doing lots of island hopping or tours/excursions such as an overnight camping trip in Khao Sok National Park. Several times I was denied a trip because they need at least two people to make it worth their money or time. And since there aren’t that many people touring during that time of year, the odds of booking it along with a group is a bit less likely.

Get comfortable with crashing honeymoons if you’re traveling solo in Thailand

14. Some islands actually close during the rainy season
If you’re planning to do some scuba diving don’t travel to the Andaman Sea side of Thailand during the rainy season. Several islands close this time of year and it’s actually illegal, not to mention dangerous, to go diving then.

15. If you rent a car or motorbike, be careful
Traffic is a free for all and there seems to be minimal safety regulations. I’ve read that lots of tourists get in severe, even fatal accidents regularly. Follow your common sense about safety precautions such as helmets and other protective wear, and pay attention to everyone around you. People drive around on mopeds with their newborn infants in one arm.

Of course I could go on for paragraphs and paragraphs, but the best piece of advice I have for Thailand is just to go. Experience everything you can, see all different parts of the country, and just try to get a taste of Thai culture. The people are remarkable, friendly, and genuinely intriguing. Use your common sense and be open to new experiences and you’ll have a great time! I definitely plan to go back during high season and do some island hopping myself.

Categories
Asia

Booked: My Next BIG Vacation

The other day I was lucky enough to get a decent amount of money for referring a friend who was hired at our company. I should’ve put it directly towards my credit card bills, but I just did that with my entire tax return. So screw it, I’m going somewhere. Somewhere far, unlike any place I’ve ever been before so that I can experience true culture shock. I want to feel uncomfortable, lost, and far away from anything I’ve ever known.

So I’m going to Thailand.

Yes, I’ll probably stay close to the tourist hotspots like Bangkok and Phuket, but it will still be completely foreign to me since I know nothing about Thailand other than they had a huge Tsunami in 04, and it’s a place where both horny expats and honeymooning lovers go. I’ve only tried Thai food once, and to be embarrassingly honest I really don’t know much about Asia at all.

I’ll be traveling from May 18th – May 29th, spending over 55 hours in airports and airplanes. And sure it’s rainy season, but that just translates to affordable for me. It’s all about the silver lining people. My glass is always half full!

It’s rather unlike me to book such a huge trip just a month in advance, but this is an experiment at becoming a more adventurous on-the-go traveler. And I don’t plan on doing much research or planning because I don’t want to know what to expect. But I did jot down a few thoughts running through my mind in my notebook last night*.

It’s going to be an exciting journey. Stay tuned!

*See scanned image above. Apologies for my dreadful handwriting