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Caribbean Guide Solo Travel South America

HOW TO CELEBRATE NEW YEARS (OR ANY DAY) IN CARTAGENA

I kicked off my multi-month Latin tour by ringing in 2015 in South America’s party city: Cartagena, Colombia. From what I can tell, Cartagena is catching on as a major global tourist destination. Even though the city was packed with mostly Argentinians, it’s clear to see that the stigma of Colombia being a dangerously scary country is starting to go away amongst European and American travelers.

So if you’re planning way ahead on where you might want to spend your next New Years, or just thinking about where to visit next for a girls/guys getaway, here’s some insight to get you swinging your hips in the sweltering Colombian city before it catches on with the masses.

THE BASIC INFO
While there are several historical sights to see, I would definitely classify Cartagena as a party destination. So when you’re sick of Las Vegas, Ibiza, and New Orleans, Cartagena might be a good next. Its proximity to the equator keeps it around a sweaty 90 degrees (F, or 32 C) all year long (with humidity to match). It’s a vibrant city that seems to be full of people looking to have a good time. You can carry alcohol on the streets, and on holidays like New Years most of the open-air bars spill out onto the streets, restaurants and cafes take over entire squares, and live music shuts down every street in the Old City.

The traffic is insane, making New York almost laughable by comparison. Cars and motorbikes drive in seemingly nonexistent lanes, stop at the very last second, and haul ass around every corner. Swarms of pedestrians fill every gap between bumpers and on the sidewalks at intersections. Taxis here are cheap and plentiful though, so avoid the stress of driving and take a cab when you need to get somewhere far off.

WHERE TO STAY
The main touristy neighborhoods of Cartagena are the Old City, Getsenami, and Bocagrande.

Cartagena Old City
Plaza de la Aduana in the Old City
Old City
The colorful streets of the Old City have way more foot traffic than vehicles.


The Old City
is full of beautiful, colorful European/Spanish/Caribbean style buildings (at leas that’s how it looked to me, I’m no architecture buff), outlined by narrow streets held tight within the old city walls. On New Years Eve most of the streets are closed to traffic. Instead, every intersection fills with live music and countless people dancing the night away with Aguardiente in hand. It’s impossible not to have a blast while making your way from party to party. This is the area where you’ll find those beautiful sunsets from Cafe del Mar, tons of shopping, and a more European feel.

Getsenami is the backpacker’s area which seems to be a little more rough around the edges, but still feels safe. This area is only a few blocks from the old city, and is full of hostels, cafes, pizza shops, and bars, set right among houses where you can look inside any open door or window and see a family eating dinner or watching television in their living room. Kind of makes you wonder just how “dangerous” a place can really be when everyone’s home is basically wide open, right on the street.

Bocagrande
Luxury in Bocagrande


Bocagrande
is I guess like a Colombian Miami. It’s the peninsula of shiny bright skyscrapers that you’ll see first when you fly in. I hear it’s for the rich peoples, which is why I didn’t spend much time there. I am not a rich people. On New Year’s Day I walked from the Old City to the beach in Bocagrande in about 45 minutes along Santander. The beach was packed, and certainly nothing special with dingy water, meh sand, and right across the street from a giant shopping mall. If you’re going to do the beach don’t waste your time on Bocagrande. Head to Playa Blanca or the Rosario Islands instead.

Playa Blanca
The ridiculously clear waters of Playa Blanca are a hundred times better than the beaches in Bocagrande. If it’s crowded, spend the twenty minutes walking down the beach to escape some of the madness.


BOOK IN ADVANCE DURING HIGH SEASON
If you’re going during high season such as New Years, Christmas, or Carnaval, definitely book in advance. I booked my hotel in October and struggled to find an affordable, decent place. I was looking at a budget of under $50/night which eliminated pretty much every hotel. And all of the recommended hostels were already booked up as well. Luckily I came across the poorly reviewed Hotel San Felipe for about $48/night, but I found it to be perfect for what I needed. It was double the price through most hotel booking sites, but I managed to get it half off on hostelworld.com. Lots of backpackers told me they had trouble showing up and finding room even for one traveler. A few of them had to keep moving between hostels every day because they couldn’t find vacancy for their entire stay.

A few people I met couchsurfed with people outside of the touristy neighborhoods and had absolutely fantastic experiences hanging out at the local bars and paying less than $1 for a beer. As Colombians have been so incredibly welcoming and genuinely nice from my experience, I say if you can find a couchsurfing opportunity, go for it!


LEARN SPANISH
I thought that the hotel staff would at least speak a little English but they did not. Some of the hostel staff spoke a bit, but it definitely helps to know enough Spanish to help you get around and pay for things. Obviously the more Spanish you know the better off you’ll be, and the deeper and more authentic your experience will be too. From my experience Colombians are insanely happy to chat with foreigners and help them practice their Spanish. You’ll meet so many more people and engage in so many more memorable conversations if you just attempt to speak to them in their language. If you’re too timid like I was, drink a couple of beers and give it a go. It’s like they light up when you attempt to communicate in their language.


STAY SAFE
Overall, use your common sense and you should be absolutely fine in Cartagena. But traveling to developing cities in Latin America call for some additional precautions that you might not practice in say, Paris or New York. For example, I would freely walk around most US and European cities with my DSLR strapped across my chest, or use my iPhone as a map while wandering the streets aimlessly. I didn’t really pull out either one in Cartagena very often, as to not draw any more attention to myself as a target for being robbed. Maybe it’s a little paranoid, but poverty in this area was very real and obvious, so I also kind of felt like a dick flaunting that stuff around. You just don’t see it anywhere.

Whenever possible, have the hotel/hostel call you a taxi or book one through an app like Tappsi. Apparently there are some shady unofficial drivers out there who will take you to a secluded area, and before you know it some randoms are jumping in the car to rob you of your belongings. Also, again on the borderline paranoid front, you should always have your windows up, doors locked, and keep your cell phone, camera, and wallet in your pockets. I’ve heard numerous stories from Cartagena and beyond of people being robbed at gunpoint while at a red light, and the taxi driver does absolutely nothing about it but sit there and wait for the light to change. And with the way people weave their way in and out of parked cars at the street lights, it’s easy to see how this can happen so quickly and easily.

Keep your bag strapped on you and in full site at all times. A girl I’d met in Cartagena had her bag stolen from the back of her chair while eating at a cafe in Plaza de la Trinidad. Once she realized what had happened she immediately told the cafe staff, who worked quickly to watch the surveillance and identify the thieves. Hours later when she’d already gone to bed, the thieves returned to the cafe where they were busted by the staff. She got a call to head down to the police station, where she met the thieves face to face. Unfortunately they had already sold her stuff, but the police at least made them give her the money they made from the sale. Sadly this kind of thing happens ALL over the world, especially in hot tourist destinations. And most Colombians I’ve met seem genuinely disgusted with people like this. Their country has transformed so much over the past few decades and they’re finally welcoming tourists and even able to travel the country themselves. The last thing they want is for a few bad guys to ruin their country’s transforming reputation.

If you’re a solo female traveler, just take the usual precautions and you’ll be fine. I thought I’d be a prime target for men to catcall me on the street and aggressively try to pick me up in bars (not that I think I’m hot shit or anything, it just tends to happen a lot in places where my light skin/hair/eyes is a minority), but I can honestly say that that rarely happened in Cartagena. Maybe it’s because I’m getting older and I’ve “lost it,” but I’m told that Colombian men are actually quite timid. I’m not sure about that, but I do know that I was hit on and cat-called more on any given day in New York than I was during my entire stay in Cartagena.

If you choose to buy drugs in Colombia, best of luck to you. I have no firsthand experience with that, but I met a group of Australians who claimed they followed some guy that they’d already bought stuff off of before into some house, where they were robbed of everything they had on them at knifepoint. Also I don’t think the police have much tolerance for tourists doing drugs so again, good luck.

And for fuck’s sake, get the hell out of the hostel, get away from the backpacking crowds, and go enjoy the city with some locals. Meeting these people who stick to the hostel scene and only party with other foreigners blows my mind. You’re going to Colombia for a different experience, so go experience it. Don’t get caught up in the same familiar, English-speaking comfort zone you have back home. You don’t have to know perfect Spanish to try new foods, enjoy good music, or have a Colombian teach you how to dance.

If you do decide to go celebrate the new year in Cartagena…

WHAT YOU SHOULD BE DOING AT MIDNIGHT
Making out with a hot Colombian! Okay, okay, perhaps that’s not exactly in your cards for whatever reason. Luckily there are plenty of parties to choose from, but almost all of them come with a hefty price tag. I didn’t do one of these, but if that’s your scene I would advise you to book early to save a bit of cash. I met several people who booked last minute tickets to some of the most well-known parties and managed to get in just fine, but they PAID for it.

Expect to pay at least $75 for a BYOB & food event, $125 for a fancy fireworks & yacht cruise, and upwards of $200/$300 for an all-out rave/concert with well-known Latin artists.

I chose not to buy a ticket in somewhere because 1-I didn’t want to be confined to just one place the entire evening, especially if it sucked, and 2-I hate spending money just to get into a place. So pretentious.

Luckily you don’t need to shell out a fortune to have a good time on New Years. I met up with a Colombian from couchsurfing and a few other people she’d recently met through friends. We went for tapas, bought a few bottles of beer and some Aguardiente, and walked over to see the fireworks in the Old City. The fireworks definitely weren’t as hardcore as I thought they were going to be (I guess I’m spoiled by the Macy’s Fourth of July show), but they were being lit off only about 100 feet away from us into a crowd full of people so that was pretty sweet. They lit them off near Cafe del Mar, just outside of the wall, so grab some drinks and head to the lawn just before midnight for a front row view.

Fireworks

NYE DJ Parties
One of the many random street parties where DJs blasted music all night while people danced their way through the streets.

DON’T PLAN ON SLEEPING
I lived in New York for eight years and after many nights of seeing the sun rise in a drunken stupor, I thought that city never slept. But I think Cartagena may have New York beat. Again, I am getting older, but after my night of drinking and dancing I was ready for bed at about 330am. As I made my way back to the hotel the parties were still going strong. Most of them had moved off the streets and indoors now, but I was told some would last until well into the afternoon on January 1st. Then on January 3rd I woke up at 3am to loud booms, only to look out my window and see a full on firework show going on AT THREE IN THE MORNING. What the hell?

Cartagena is still relatively cheap for US residents to travel to. Right now 1 USD is equal to about 2300 Colombian Pesos, putting beers at about $1/$1.50, and most basic meals well under $10. Also it’s cheap to get here on a budget airline like JetBlue and Spirit. I paid $350 one-way for a flight two days before New Years. I think round trip was only slightly more. Regardless, Cartagena is definitely a contender for an unforgettable, affordable trip, just make sure you’re ready to party and dance!

Categories
Caribbean

Full Moon Party at Bomba’s Shack

I hate to admit it, but I was completely oblivious to the full moon parties of Thailand before booking my trip to the BVI. But thanks to the internet, a quick Google search showed me photos: minimal clothing, flaming jump ropes, glowing body paint, endless shots, and sand-covered bodies passed out in the sand. Though it did look like an STD-ridden, overcrowded, sweaty mess, I was tempted. Sign me up.

So you can imagine my excitement after learning about the Full Moon Parties at Bomba’s Shack in the BVI. But another Google image search showed me hardly the same scene: tame partying, sober faces, and a bit more conservative crowd of Hard Rock Cafe t-shirt donning tourists posing for photos. But Bomba’s Shack was just up the hill from our resort, so we spent our final evening in Tortola partying with the locals.

 

Get naked, get a free tshirt
Bomba’s truck

Bomba’s shack is exactly that—a shack built from what appears to be tons of scraps and debris that has washed ashore. Tattered, dirty underwear adorned the walls that look as though the slightest breeze will send it crumbling  right into the ocean that lies just steps away. There’s Sharpie-scribbled writing on nearly every conceivable surface, and of course, everybody is on island time. Oddly enough, it did look like the kind of bar that’d be jam-packed any given night in the LES of New York.

Bomba’s Shack
The panties

Intrigued by stories of others’ Full Moon Party celebrations, and intoxicated by the hopeful anticipation of a wildly fun evening I’d be struggling to remember in the morning, I got suckered into buying the $50 wristband for a night of unlimited alcohol and mushroom tea. It seemed like a good excuse to ignore my rational self from trying to keep my shit together as much as possible for my early AM flight. I figured I’d leave it up to the fate of my “how much I can drink : how many hours until the 6am ferry” ratio.

I immediately bee-lined past the flashing lights, live music, and drunk dancing, straight into the dark, secluded corner of the lot to get some tea. There was a makeshift bar set up thats only light was from the full moon and the flame beneath the boiling pot of  mushroom tea. The guy serving up the tea was the exact image of a guy you’d normally steer clear of if you saw him walking down the street in New York in broad daylight. Even if it means walking a block out of your way. He was speaking gibberish and he wouldn’t give me any tea unless I walked over to him behind the bar.

The teamaster, succeeding at freaking me out

Having never done drugs in my life, I was a bit nervous about the effects of this mushroom tea so I was double fisting a scalding hot mug and a backup vodka pineapple. Suddenly my mind was racing. Was it strong? Would I trip instantly, or is it the kind of thing that would take a while to set in? Would I realize I was tripping? Would I trip at all? Having not done my research, I didn’t know if it was strong stuff, nor did I really want to find out when I’m 1,700 miles from home with no cell service, and an early flight to catch. So after I started to feel the vodka kick in I called it quits after one cup of tea.

Before long we were dancing in the crowds of people to live music, and I felt a dog suddenly nibbling on my toes as they kicked out of the sand. We were there just a week after carnival so apparently most of the tourists had left by then, but every other person we had met during our 5 days of island hopping was at this party. We met tons of people, including some guys from New York that I was so nice as to get free drinks with my unlimited wristband, and this guy who’s souvenir was to have everyone sign his shirt. So I drew a smiley face along with my name around his nipple.

My dancing partner, who thought my toes looked like dog treats
Souvenir nipple signing!

Then hours of dancing followed by an increase in being hit on, until most of the couples were calling it a night and the locals were out to pick up any leftover single, drunk tourists they could run off with. The Full Moon Party was coming to an end. And I wasn’t nearly as drunk as I’d thought I’d be for $50.

Guys who claimed to be from New York
Stephanie & I with Eric our cab driver

We headed back to the room to finish packing up the remnants of a wonderful vacation for a 6a ferry back to the airport in St Thomas. Luckily we made it on time with only mild hangovers, but the BVI’s couldn’t send us off without one last adventure: the ferry caught on fire in the middle of the ocean. We didn’t see any flames, just choked on the thick smoke that was pouring in from under the floorboards. Luckily it wasn’t too bad, and after vocalizing several Titanic-like concerns, we were able to swap ships and make it to St Thomas just in time for our ironically delayed flights.

Categories
Caribbean

Day Tripper: Virgin Gorda and Jost Van Dyke

I love boats. I’ll take any excuse to head out on the water on just about anything that at least partially floats (unless it involves Rose Dawson and a life-or-death situation). I love gliding across the water towards a seemingly endless horizon to the hum of the boat’s engine, feeling the crisp wind steal the breath right from my lungs. Especially when the 360° view is nothing but deep blue waters laid like a welcoming path through the perfectly spaced mountains. So it only made sense to spend some time island-hopping down in the Virgin Islands.

As luck would have it, on one of the nicest mornings of our trip our speedboat journey was canceled due to mechanical problems with the boat. So rather than sit around on the beach, we headed over to Road Town and jumped on the ferry to Virgin Gorda.

The tree-covered mountains looked soft and lickable

After gliding through the sea and mountains, we docked at Virgin Gorda and frankly, I was struggling to see what the big deal was. Sure it was nice, but it looked no different than the numerous islands we’d just sped past. So we hopped in the back of a poorly-marked pickup truck and made our way to the Baths, hoping for something to change.

We jumped out at a seemingly desolate area with signs leading us towards a gravel path that weaved through a patch of trees. We started on our way, encountering a few peculiar chameleon-esque lizards along the way (which also looked lickable for reasons other than the mountains).

Clearly these lizards aren’t that good at camouflaging

Then we reached the top of the baths and it all made sense. We were staring out at slivers of beautiful, postcard-worthy beaches peaking out from gigantic boulders. I mean huge boulders. The luxurious, P-Diddy style yachts anchored just offshore looked laughable in size compared to these boulders that were strewn about the beach.

Does anyone else see the angry face in this one?

Ohhh, so THIS is what Paradise looks like!
Posing for my “Little Mermaid” moment

There were plenty of nooks and bays to set up shop and do some sun-bathing, or go wading in the crystal clear water. Or you could take the more adventurous route and squeeze your way through the boulders along the Devil’s Bay Trail.

The sign leading you through an obscure 1ft passageway to enter the cave

We opted for adventure. Bikini-clad and barefoot, we carried our snorkeling gear and squeezed our way through the narrow passage to begin our journey.

Hunched over butt shot

The hike winds on for about 20 minutes through caves and pools of water trapped by enormous boulders. Beams of sunlight squeezed through every tiny crack, leaving some spots dark. Turning, crawling, climbing, squeezing through narrow passageways better suited for children. Or cats. Ropes and wooden ladders provided assistance at times, as crabs scuttled by without hassle.

Climbing through the caves
Stephanie up ahead as I took 8 million photos
Probably my favorite spot inside the caves
Stopping to relax and snap a pic inside the caves. Yes we needed a flash

Once we made our way through to Devil’s Bay we did some snorkeling. Stephanie had had enough so I ventured on by myself. I’ve done my fair share of just-off-the-beach snorkeling, so I decided to get a bit adventurous and navigate my way through the caves. Floating serenely and completely lost in the moment, I saw a curious blue fish taking an interest in me. I started to follow it, unbeknownst to everything else around me. It kept looking back as if to say “hurry up!” (though I’m sure it was more like “what is that and why is it following me?”).

I can’t help but notice the sand patch lining up with the fish’s tail looks like a fart cloud

Before long, I was following an entire school of fish as they swayed with the current and made their way through a two-foot-wide opening into a canyon. I gave it a second thought, but before I could turn around the current had swept me in. The coral was so high all I could do was try to stay afloat while sucking in my gut, and try to master Jedi mind-tricks to push myself away from the rocks. I had a brief moment of panic, wondering if I’d be able to get out considering there was hardly enough depth to properly swim. And more importantly, do sharks hide in caves?

New friends
Coral lining the underwater entry to the canyon

Just when the water deepened and I was able to exhale, I turned to see a pinkish blob floating in front of me. I was in a state of confusion, intrigue, and general euphoria with the peace of the ocean, so I—and by I, I mean the current— decided to swim towards it. The pink blob was also interested in the flesh blob in front of it, so it lunged towards me in quick, assertive motions. Before I realized it I was face to face with a jellyfish, which appeared ready to latch on. Only knowing that these things can sting and I wasn’t ready to ask Stephanie to pee on my face, I turned around and swam as fast as my finned feet could take me, over the coral, through the canyon, around the boulders, and all the way back onto shore.

Yes I managed to snap a picture once I got a safe distance away
While I was battling my new arch nemesis, Stephanie was meditating in peace on this rock

After the threat of heart failure and subsequent/necessary relaxing on the secluded beach, we made our way back through the boulders and stopped for a quick bite to eat. I took part in observing an intense polarized conversation between Stephanie and a local: Stephanie, arguing for modern communication in a world that would fail without constant iPhone connectivity, against the BVI-born guy who’d spent some time in the overwhelming streets of NYC before moving back to his simpler, more enriching island life. Shit got real. Let’s just say I’m glad neither of them were packing heat.

I felt the need to ask the latter member of the argument for a pic to thank him for his troubles

The next day our boat charter was ready to go. Stephanie—the poor girl had to go all the way to the Caribbean to realize she wasn’t a fan of island time, beaches, boats, or water—wasn’t feeling up for the ride so I went solo.

The boats at Soper’s Hole, Road Town
The incredibly nice family from Barcelona I’d met, and wish I had a way to get in touch with

I was on a boat with about 9 other people from Arkansas and Barcelona aboard the Mystique, which I can’t speak highly enough about. The crew were all around great people. Helpful, fun, and they kept us happy with unlimited rum punch and snacks. We anchored out at a tiny secluded island no bigger than a soccer field for snorkeling on the way to Jost Van Dyke. Having grown some balls since the previous day’s underwater experience, I set out to explore the underwater world again. Thankfully this time was much less eventful. There was plenty of colorful marine life, but this time it was terrified of me, not trying to attack my face.

The Mystique, and some other random boat
That’s Captain Kim to you!
Isolated Paradise
Snorkeling break
One last pic before swimming back to the boat

We made our way to Jost Van Dyke for lunch at Jewel’s Snack Shack. Having a chat with Jewel, the hut’s vibrantly outspoken owner, and reading the words of wisdom that adorn the walls are both reason enough to stop for a drink. Plus it’s home of the fabulous “Party Punch,” which she calls “rum punch with a touch of class.” Maybe it was the convincing marketing, or the extra sprinkle of nutmeg on top, but this really was the best rum punch I’d had on the islands.

The words to live by left by fellow travelers decorate the walls at Jewel’s
Mmm…Rum Punch

After scarfing down a hot dog quicker than it took to heat it up, the bulk of us made our way over to the Soggy Dollar Bar. I grabbed a Virgin Islands Islands Summer Ale and kicked back in my first hammock ever, which, though it was extremely comfortable and just as relaxing as you’d imagine, the task of getting out gracefully proved to be quite daunting.

The Soggy Dollar Bar gets its name because they let you pay —you guessed it—soggy dollars
Awkward tourist photo in front of the Soggy Dollar Bar

Before I knew it, the day was coming to an end. I started making my way back to the boat before realizing that the only thing standing (technically swimming) in the way of me climbing onboard was a giant barracuda. Great. Jellyfish flashbacks ensued.

Ooo…Barracuda!

Luckily I made it back injury-free, and planted myself in one of the seats at the front of the boat. I was accompanied only by my decent buzz as everyone else hid in the shade. I spent the next hour speeding away from the sun with the wind in my face. And I struggled to remember a more perfect moment in my 26 years of life.

Enjoying a moment

Categories
Caribbean Food + Drinks

Getting High for Birthday Dinner in the BVI

I am by no means a food connoisseur. Hell, one of my favorite foods is the Cheesy Gordita Crunch from Taco Bell. But I do have nearly 27 years of experience in eating. That’s gotta give me some credibility, right?

Living in New York for nearly six years has given me a slight tendency to judge and compare food and dining experiences based on the best meals I’ve had in the city. But from my accumulation of previous feeding time adventures in the Caribbean, I wasn’t exactly sure what to expect when asking around for a nice restaurant to go to for birthday dinner. I’ve seen everything from folding chairs and paper plates, to fish covered with melted cheese. Several tourists and locals recommended the Bananakeet Cafe on top of Windy Hill, so we figured what the hell, why not? The name didn’t sound like much more than a simple grab-and-go spot for fruit and coffee, but we were told the view alone was worth it. With the tagline “The Higher You Get… The Better The View,” you can’t help but wonder what’s so great about this view. I can assure you, it did not disappoint my eyes or my tongue for my first dinner as a 26 year old.

Bananakeet Cafe, “The Higher You Get, The Better The View”

Described as “Caribbean fusion with a view,” the open-patio restaurant is situated alongside The Heritage Inn, with a tempting little pool between the two. The covered area near the bar opens up to a full seating area on the deck looking over the entire bay. And the infamous sunset. It could only be described as every cliche you would ever use to describe a perfect sunset, painting the sky with colors and dramatic clouds. The photos just couldn’t do it justice, but I kept snapping anyway. If you go to Banakeet Cafe, definitely plan on being there a bit before the sun goes down!

Sunset from Bananakeet Cafe
The view changes every minute, it’s hard not to snap a million pics in one sitting

Plus another great part about being there during sunset, you get a free sunset shot. But let’s just pretend they were free birthday shots because everyone in the world was obviously pumped about my birthday.

The evolution of Corona ads
Happy birthday dinner to me!

I was surprised to see a menu full of things that I couldn’t wait to put in my mouth. So I went with pumpkin soup, coconut fried shrimp, and sushi. Delicious, quality food, and an equally stellar presentation. Stephanie had the vegetarian pasta which she also said was incredible.

Pumpkin soup
Coconut fried shrimp
Sushi with what tasted like a peanut-based sesame soy sauce
Vegetarian Pasta

The food was delicious and fresh, and the service was great. Our waiter was friendly and kept offering to take pictures of us, and totally understood when I jumped up in the middle of ordering and told him to hold on while I snapped “the perfect sunset photo.” He even gave me a free birthday dessert! It certainly wasn’t a budget meal, but entirely worth every dollar.

And besides, it was my birthday so it was Stephanie’s treat! Thanks Stephanie!

Categories
Caribbean Lodging Review

5 Nights at the Long Bay Beach Resort & Villas

During our five night trip to the British Virgin Islands, Stephanie and I stayed at the Long Bay Beach Resort & Villas on Tortola. The grounds were gorgeous—52 acres of sprawling, semi-secluded rooms nestled throughout the lush hills. We managed to snag a beachfront deluxe room for just $550 for five nights through TripAlertz. The room was clean and comfortable, the bathroom and walk-in closet were easily the size of most budget New York City apartments, and the full-sized window in the shower made me feel like a bit of an exhibitionist. But how can anyone resist opening the window to the sound of the waves and the moon glowing over the ocean just steps away?

View from the pool area
View from our balcony
Our beachfront deluxe room—bet you can’t guess which bed is mine!

The private beach right outside of our room was gorgeous to look at, but not the best for swimming. It wasn’t horrible by any means, but it was always wavy and some spots were a bit rocky just a few feet into the water. Our friends stayed at the resort the week before us and the one girl actually broke her toe swimming in the ocean on the first day of her vacation. Also there were signs all over the place warning of strong riptides, so swimmers beware!

Pulling a lounge chair into the water for some relaxation
The private beach area
Some pretty serious waves

We never made it down in time for the breakfast buffet, but we did order a proper breakfast at the resort’s restaurant 1748 a couple of times. It was good, not great, and a bit overpriced for the portion size. I only splurged for a juice with my meal on the first day because the serving size was hardly worth the price.

Beachside breakfast at 1748—cinnamon raisin french toast, watermelon and OJ

I usually can’t understand why anyone would go to a beachfront resort and then spend time at the pool. But as my aging skin quickly realized, sometimes you need a break from all of the harsh saltwater. Luckily the Long Bay Beach Resort has a fantastic pool with a swim-up bar and grill, friendly bartenders, and a water slide. What more could you possibly need? Oh did I mention the view is great too? Tropical green hills on one side, and a deck overlooking the ocean on the other.

Piña colada time in the pool
Oh bartender, if you only knew what you were getting yourself into by handing me that bottle
Acting like a drunk little kid on the water slide while simultaneously scaring them
Rum punch with the secret ingredient: nutmeg!

Taking a stroll West down the beach to Belmont Bay made me second guess all of those times I ever made fun of any hopeless romantic who ever said “I enjoy long walks on the beach.” This stretch of beach is almost uninhibited, with pristine, soft sand and the occasional coconut here and there, and nothing but the sound of the ocean.

The untouched soft sand at Belmont Bay
Belmont Bay

We asked a few people where was the best beach was within walking distance from the resort. Everyone pointed us in the same direction just beyond Belmont Bay. So we started our trek down this road a few yards from the beach, through the trees and private drives, around Belmont Pond, and right onto Smuggler’s Cover.

Surfboard fork in the road
Nature Boy Hidden Beach Bar, sans Nature Boy

We continued on for another 30-45 minutes on a gravel path through the trees until we stopped hearing the sounds of the ocean. It was hot, and we were starting to wonder if maybe we’d taken a wrong turn.

The path to Smuggler’s Cover
Smuggler’s Cove

Just as quickly as we’d started discussing the idea of turning around, what appeared to be a mirage of paradise emerged from beyond the thick green forest. The non-strenuous but sweaty haul was definitely worth it. This beach was a secluded, private oasis of crystal clear, calm water and no rocks and nonexistent waves almost as calm as a swimming pool.

I paid $8 to rent some snorkeling gear to swim around for an hour or so. Normally it’s $10 for 30 mins, but I don’t think they’re too strict about any prices at that beach. I started off on a stretch of reefs close to the shore where there were massive schools of tiny fish. Then I swam further out as the fish got even bigger, until a grey fish that was about 3 feet long caught my eye . My first reaction was “shark!” as I bee-lined back to shore thinking about the terrifying JAWS ride at Disney World.

A wall of fish which was slightly unnerving to swim through
Safe back at the shore

Before heading back to the resort another local told us to walk into the trees and check out the Lincoln that Queen Elizabeth II had riden in on her visit to the island in 1976. I was intrigued, and expecting to see some sort of memorialized car in pristine condition. We walked for a few minutes without seeing anything, and realized that yet again we were taking some strange man’s advice and wandering off into the forest alone. But alas, we realized this rusted pile of junk was indeed the Lincoln.

The Lincoln that Queen Elizabeth II rode in in 1976

All in all the Long Bay Beach Resort was a nice place to stay. It’s also just a short walk or even shorter cab ride to Bomba’s Shack (hosting the Virgin Islands’ Full Moon Party each month), and Sebastian’s on the Beach. It’s about a 15-20 minute cab ride to Road Town where most of the ferries arrive/depart for other islands, but if you’re only planning a day or two of excursions, Long Bay Beach is a great place to relax, unwind, and enjoy a sunset or three.

Categories
Caribbean

When You and a Friend End up on an Accidental Honeymoon

On August 9th I set out to celebrate my 26th birthday on the furthest secluded beach I could get to on a budget. Though the free flight and amazingly low hotel price may have been a steal, I learned two very important things during my six day getaway: the British Virgin Islands are not a place to visit if you’re on a tight budget, and you shouldn’t visit during low-season if you’re young, single, and looking for any kind of nightlife fun.

In case you missed the previous post, let me preface this story with the fact that this was originally a birthday trip I had planned for myself and my (now ex) boyfriend. But shit happens, so my friend Stephanie stepped in and said she’d go. I met her at the airport in St Thomas and we took a $20 cab ride to the $55RT ferry to Tortola. I was excited to finally cruise around the islands in the warm Caribbean air, but that was hardly the case. The boat was fully enclosed and looked like it was about to sink at any minute (it actually did catch fire on the way back to St Thomas, but more on that later). We made it over to West End Tortola safely in about 45 minutes, and finally one last $10 cab ride got us to the resort in Long Bay.

Loading people into the ferry

Fast forward to check-in. When we arrived at the hotel I was greeted as Mrs. Edwards (my ex’s last name) for the next two days, no matter how many times I told them otherwise. Even though the reservation was in my name, they just couldn’t get it through their heads that he wasn’t there. It’s a good thing I wasn’t upset over this breakup, or it could’ve been painstakingly similar to the Sex and the City movie.

After checking in we hopped into a van and our driver dodged chickens and roosters to drive up a steep hill, around to a secluded entrance and down a few stairs to our room. It was a room with only one bed, even though I had specifically called and changed the request myself. Fortunately it was off-season and the place wasn’t really that busy, so we hopped back in the car and drove back down the hill to a beachfront two bed room with a balcony looking out over the ocean. Jackpot upgrade.

The view from our balcony
The steps down to the beach, as seen from our balcony

We both arrived absolutely starving, but my wallet was already feeling a little bit strained so we decided that the best thing to do was to get into our bikinis and run out to the beach to watch the sunset.

Me enjoying the sunset from the ocean in Long Bay

Once we’d basked in the glory of paradise until our fingers were pruney, we ventured down to the resort’s beachfront restaurant, 1748, to fill our bellies. The place couldn’t have been more romantic: candlelit, open-air seating along the ocean, with the sound of waves crashing, and four other love-drunk couples gazing into each others’ eyes as they shared desserts. We were going to need wine for this.

Thank God for alcohol…
…and food!

We both opted for a light dinner (Stephanie because she has this mysterious thing called self-control, and me because I was more concerned with getting a buzz off the wine). We took our time enjoying our minestrone and bruschetta, as the couples began to head back to their hotel rooms one by one. Before long it was 930 and we were getting glares from the waitresses. We took that as our cue to end our first day of our accidental honeymoon and head back to the room ourselves.

Categories
Caribbean Steals + Deals

5 Nights in Virgin Islands Paradise + Airfare for $330

Long Bay Beach, Tortola, British Virgin Islands, courtesy of Caribbean-scuba.net

I always told myself that as soon as I got my first real job, I’d be booking a flight to Paris to celebrate. As it turns out, that first-year salary doesn’t exactly support an overseas adventure of sight-seeing and gluttony, so Paris was slightly out of reach for the immediate future without a little bit of savings. But I wasn’t going to let that get in the way of going somewhere new and exciting for my first big-girl vacation.

I booked a round trip flight + 5 night stay at a beachfront property in the British Virgin Islands for only $330 total, my half. Here’s how I did it.

I’ve had my eye on the Virgin Islands for a little over a year now, so after plenty of research and patience, I decided to make the commitment and book a trip. I figured out that my birthday would be the perfect time to go, because 1 it’s in August, off season, so the hotels aren’t as expensive, and 2 because I knew I could guilt-trip my boyfriend into supplementing the cost by making the trip with me since it’s “for my birthday.”

I cashed in on some of my free miles through Spirit Airlines (55,000 points to be exact) and paid only $30 in taxes and fees for a round trip flight from New York to St Thomas, USVI. That flight should have been just over $400. Cha-ching! I opened a Spirit Mastercard and became a member of the $9 fare club more than 5 years ago, but I wouldn’t recommend it to anyone now. I used to get 1-2 free flights per year with my miles just from using my credit card and making a few trips from New York to Detroit to visit family. There were no restrictions, no black out dates, no tiered seating for the amount of points. You could basically fly wherever they flew, whenever you wanted without ever being told no. Now there’s an annual fee, checked and carry-on bag fees, booking fees, and it’s nearly impossible to get a seat on a flight. I can’t speak for the new card that they’re in the process of switching over to, but if it’s anything like the current one, you’re better off paying for a flight on another airline with better customer service and more spacious seating.

Long Bay Beach Resort, where we’re staying in the British Virgin Islands

A few months ago I signed up for TripAlertz, which is basically a members only, Groupon-style travel site where the more people who book, the cheaper the price. I got an email about a deal for the Long Bay Beach Resort in Tortola, British Virgin Islands, which was a place I had looked at but ruled out as too expensive at $234 a night + tax. But after a month of searching, I wasn’t having much luck finding an affordable, beachfront hotel my boyfriend and I could agree upon in the US Virgin Islands. I wanted to get away from the touristy overcrowding of St Thomas, and even strongly considered an eco-tent on a secluded beach in St John. My guy wasn’t convinced though, and he wanted something similar to the Ritz Carlton, but on a Holiday Inn budget. So I broadened my search to the British Virgin Islands and looked into the TripAlertz deal—$550 for five nights! On any other website, this hotel was $1170 for five nights BEFORE taxes.

Prior to this deal, we had decided on the Frenchman’s Reef and Morningstar Resort in St Thomas, but we were looking at $792 for just four nights, plus tax. And then we found out that half of the resort, including the restaurants and bars, would be closed for renovations. The choice was clear—pay $250 less and stay one extra night in a fully operating resort. We initially were planning on a four night getaway since that’s all the time he can take off work, but I was secretly hoping to find a place that was cheap enough for me to head down there a day early and spend some time alone, which is exactly what happened. I’m flying down on August 9th, coming back to New York on the 14th.

Sunset at the Long Bay Beach Resort, courtesy of National Geographic

We had to pay the price of the hotel up front, totalling $640 after taxes. A week after the sale ended we got an email saying that since so many people booked the trip, we’ve hit the “epic” pricing and received an extra $25 off the trip! Not a huge amount, but definitely great that they stuck to their word!

We’ll have to pay for the ferry to get from the airport in St John to Tortola and back, which is $55 round trip. Other than that all of our money is going towards food, drinks, and fun! I think it’ll be a great experience and an excellent opportunity to do some island hopping. I’ve started checking out the other islands to find some excursions and beaches for day trips. So far, I’m considering Cinnamon Bay, Trunk Bay, Jost Van Dyke, and Virgin Gorda.

The Baths at Virgin Gorda, courtesy of VirginGordaBaths.com

If you’ve been to the Virgin Islands, what’s your favorite beach or place for snorkeling? Is there somewhere to rent a boat for a day, or should I consider a charter? Maybe a Jeep for some off-roading? Any recommendations for an unforgettable birthday getaway are greatly appreciated!